with Mario Batali on Cooking Pasta

Unameit: My sister-in-law, who once lived in Italy so has now become the authority on Italian everything, said that you should never start the pasta pot with hot water. She said you must start the water cold because when the water boils, something about the oxygen. I don't know about that, but is there a reason to start with cold water, does it matter and why? Also, how about adding oil to the water and/or salt. Why should you or shouldn't you add?

Mario: I don't think it makes a difference to make the same water from hot or from cold, it depends on your timing issue. Working in Italy, we rarely fill the pot with hot water, because we have a small hot water boiler. Oil is a waste of money when you throw it in the water, it doesn't do anything. I generally wait for the water to boil, and for two gallons of water, I use two handfuls of salt.

Ginetta: Where can I find a European rolling pin? My grandmother had one for making fresh pasta--it was wooden and thinner than a regular rolling pin and much longer. Any ideas on where to buy one such as this, or should I just make my own?

Mario: The answer is "yes." The best way to do it is to go to the hardware store and have them cut you a dowel, as you want it. Ask them to make sure it hasn't been treated with any strange furniture oil, and when you get it home, rub it with oil and have it rest for a few days. Make sure you choose a heavy wood.

Primavera-guest: What non-meat ingredient would you use to replace pancetta and prosciutto in pasta recipes? My son has a rare genetic disorder and cannot process large amounts of protein--it's toxic to him. Thanks.

Mario: My suggestion is to either use smoked salmon, other smoked fish, or something called "bottarga." All are seafood based, and somewhat salty, but bring similar qualities to a dish. If protein whatsoever is a problem then a smoked tofu or dried vegetable protein.

Nung-guest910: Hi! My long pastas keep getting stuck together, I tried my 8 quart and 12 quart pot and it still happens. I stir the pasta when I put it in and several times during cooking. Still happens. Help! I also would like to know how to hold pasta when it is ready before the sauce. Oops. Thanks.

Mario: First things first. Always make the sauce before the pasta! The pasta waits for no one, not even Aunt Izzy. I can't imagine how long your pasta must be to get stuck, other than the fact that you may be holding it after it is cooked, in which case it is impossible to have it not be sticky. So create your sauce first, and take your pasta out of the boiling water, and into the pan with the sauce, and then you will find your sticking problems will dissipate.

Texx-guest: Why do you always use white flour versus semolina when you make fresh pasta?

Mario: The soft white flour is much more traditional to the northern regions where fresh egg pasta is made. In the south, fresh semolina pasta, like cavatelli, and orecchiete, are made with semolina, but generally no eggs. It is basically two different styles, from two different regions.

Texx-guest: How do you get perfect creamy Fettuccini Alfredo?

Mario: Perfect creamy Fettuccini Alfredo is often not even made with cream. The sauce is made with butter a touch of the pasta water you cooked the pasta in then you take the noodles out of the pan put them into the pan with the butter splash in a little of the pasta water, remove the pan from the heat, add the grated cheese, and toss through. If it is a little tight or dry, add a little more pasta cooking water, until it is the right texture. It is not about cream.