
There's no denying that Washington, DC is an international city, home to many foreign embassies. Luckily for foodies, this means that ethnic cuisine is good and easy to find. From Ethiopian to El Salvadorian eats, there are many ethnic spots to visit the next time you're in the nation's capital.Grill from Ipanema 1858 Columbia Road, NW 202-986-0757 Dinner for two, with beer, about $70 Despite its silly name and unremarkable atmosphere, the Grill from Ipanema serves the city's best Brazilian food and drink. Many of the country's standards are always on the menu, and if it's any guarantee of authenticity, staff members from the Brazilian embassy are often seen eating here. If possible, come with several others so you can sample a variety of the delicious choices on a very large menu. Start with a caipirinha, Brazil's national drink made of sugar cane liquor, limes, and sugar, but beware - they're potent. You can dine happily on starters alone - linguica a palito (hot sausage sauteed with onions), breaded and fried alligator, and many more. Main course selections include the Brazilian favorite, feijoada (a stew of black beans, pork, sausage, and beef, served with rice and steamed greens), lots of grilled meats served with rice and beans, several fish stews and shrimp preparations, and just about the best fried chicken you'll ever taste. If you come for the weekend brunch, you can try the never-to-be-forgotten Carmen Miranda pancakes that are filled with a melange of ham, cheese, and fruit - a fitting tribute to the Brazilian bombshell. Beer is the beverage of choice, and the service is friendly and efficient. Mourayo 1732 Connecticut Avenue, NW 202 667 2100 Dinner for two, before wine, about $90. Forget saganaki and gyros if you should decide to dine at Mourayo, as sophisticated a Greek restaurant as you're likely to encounter anywhere. There's a legendary taverna of the same name at the harbor on the Greek island of Spetses, but Washington's Mourayo, the creation of Natalina Koropoulos, shares only the name. Although many of the Greek standards are available, and you can taste several of them if you order the combination starter plate, you're best advised to concentrate on dishes that are rarely, if ever found in a Greek restaurant. Start with the Beggar's Pouch of phyllo dough wrapped around white manoypi cheese and roasted peppers, or succulent prawns sauteed in a feta cheese and tomato sauce. The main courses include lamb, of course, but here in addition to the traditional roast, it's available as tender chops and in a savory stew served with orzo. However, the star of the meat selections is a dish rarely, if ever, found in a Greek restaurant - roasted pork tenderloin in a sauce of honey, wine, figs, and manouri cheese - it's nothing short of sensational. Another surprise is a soup made with goat meat. Fish, simply grilled and served whole, is fresh and flavorful, needing nothing more than a bit of fresh lemon. Other seafood dishes - scallops, shrimp, and mixed seafood chowder - are equally impressive. Desserts are another surprise. Along with the expected baklava and custard-filled pastry, there's delicious fruit compote served with vanilla ice cream, and a lemon/almond cake served with a spiced wine syrup. Mourayo's wines go way beyond roditis - ask for your server's advice on varieties such as robola, xynomavro, and assyrtiko. Duangrat's 5878 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, VA 703-820-5775 Dinner for two, without beverage, about $75 Duangrat's, the city's best Thai restaurant, started life as an Asian grocery store that Pookie and Ed Duangrat turned into a place of eminence in a very crowded dining category. The calm and cultured ambiance of the room, and the efficient service by young women clad in traditional gowns set the tone for superior traditional food that goes far beyond the ordinary Thai menu. Fish and seafood are king here, and they're presented in such signature creations as green beans, red snapper, shrimp, scallops, and calamari sauteed with chili paste and basil and served on rice noodles. Meat and poultry dishes are equally satisfying. Try the Chiang Mai chili pork loin stir-fried with chilies and garlic, or Grandma Duangrat's duck braised in a mixture of spices and served with a hot sweet sauce, crisp rice noodles, and a dollop of crabmeat. If Thai food means pad Thai to you, it's available here in delicious style. If you care to start with a few of the traditional small dishes, you'll find they're not very small here. Spring rolls, satay skewers, chopped chicken larb, tempura battered plantains, and crab wontons are all large enough for two to share. If you don't eat meat, there are lots of tofu and vegetarian choices, all very tasty. Heritage India 2400 Wisconsin Avenue, NW 202 333 3120 Dinner for two, without beverage, about $80 Heritage India is an attractive room with comfortable seating at well-spaced tables and banquettes. The walls are hung with an interesting assemblage of photographs and pictures of historic India. But it's the food, not the decor that you'll remember after dining here. Among the salads, for example, is Mango Tango, a blend of fresh mango fillets with boneless tandoori chicken on a bed of micro greens and fresh asparagus spears. There are many enticing traditional-style entrees, such as prawns in green pepper sauce, and on the large and varied selection of main dishes, all of the tandooris and curries are superb. If you'd like to taste several traditional dishes, add a few of the many types of house-baked breads and various side dishes, especially the Peshawari nan topped with raisins and nuts, the Basmati rice cooked with spices, saffron, and dry fruits, or the channa masala (chickpeas in fresh herbs). Vegetarians always do well in Indian restaurants, and Heritage India is no exception. Vegetarian or not, a dish such as aloo gobi masala (potatoes and cauliflower sauteed with onions, tomatoes, and herbs) is a winner. Finally, this is one of the rare Indian restaurants with desserts that are worth ordering. Try the Shahi Tukra, a flavorful bread pudding, served with pistachios, raisin, and almonds. Zed's 1201 28th Street, NW 202-333-4710 Dinner for two, with beer, about $60 Don't let Zed's unimpressive exterior turn you off, as this is not only a lovely looking restaurant inside, but it serves high-quality Ethiopian food that will appeal to even the most timid palates. There's no cramped, cross-legged sitting on the floor and scooping food with chunks of inerja flatbread. Instead, you sit on a comfortable chair at a proper table, and if you prefer, you can use fork, knife, and spoon. The menu is full of all sorts of savory treats ranging from sauteed shrimp or beef with onion to lentils in red pepper sauce. Most dishes, in fact, are prepared with the traditional Ethiopian awazei, a red pepper paste, but you can ask for milder versions of anything you order. Among the most interesting, and delicious choices are beef shortribs in a zesty sauce, roasted flaxseed pureed and cooked in a spicy sauce, eggplant and carrots slow-cooked in stewed tomato sauce, and chicken strips sauteed with onions, seasoned butter, and pepper sauce. Also, try the Ethiopian potato salad made with green chilies and lemon dressing. Skip the brief wine list and order beer - this food goes best with lots of cooling liquid.
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