IRISH POTATO BREAD

In Ireland, boxty, practically a national dish, can be served as a potato pancake, a dumpling, or even as here: a crunchy, irresistible soda bread. Great for breakfast with smoked salmon, for lunch with hearty soup, or for dinner with a roast, this easy, yeast-free bread demonstrates why the Emerald Isle loves the spud so much.

Two 3/4-pound russet potatoes
1 large egg plus 1 large egg white
1/3 cup canola oil, plus additional for greasing the baking sheet
3/4 cup fat-free milk
2 tablespoons minced chives (or the green part of a scallion)
1/2 teaspoon caraway seeds
3 1/4 cups all-purpose flour, plus additional for dusting and kneading
1 1/2 tablespoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt

Bring 1 inch of water to a boil over high heat in a vegetable steamer or a large saucepan fitted with a portable vegetable steamer. Peel one potato and cut into eighths; steam the pieces until tender when pierced with a fork, about 15 minutes. Rice or mash pieces in a large bowl; set aside to cool for 15 minutes.

Position the rack in the center of the oven; preheat the oven to 375 F. Lightly oil a large baking sheet with canola oil dabbed on a paper towel.

Peel the other potato and grate it through the large holes of a box grater. Squeeze of any excess moisture; add to the riced or mashed potatoes.

Stir in the egg, egg white, oil, milk, chives, and caraway seeds until fairly smooth. Add 3 1/4 cups flour, baking powder, and salt; stir with a wooden spoon until the mixture forms a soft but sticky dough.

Lightly flour a clean work surface as well as your cleaned and dried hands. Turn the dough out onto the floured surface and knead for 1 minute, adding flour in 1-tablespoon increments to keep the dough from turning too sticky. Too much flour and the dough turns tough; it should remain a little tacky but workable. Shape into an 8-inch circle, flatten slightly keeping the loaf mounded at its center, and place on the prepared baking sheet. Use a sharp knife to slash an X in the top of the dough, cutting into dough about 1/2 inch.

Bake until golden brown, firm to the touch, and somewhat hollow sounding when tapped, about 55 minutes. Cool 1 hour on a wire rack before slicing and serving.

Makes 1 large loaf (16 slices).

PERUVIAN CEVICHE WITH POTATOES, HALIBUT, AND MANGO

Peru may well have been the birthplace of America's favorite vegetable. Certainly one of the favorite ways to eat potatoes in Peru is in ceviche: a fresh, light mélange of fish marinated in lime juice with loads of aromatics and vegetables. Serve this refreshing lunch or first-course starter in lettuce cups, or scoop it up on baked tortilla chips.

1 pound white potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch cubes
1 cup fresh or frozen corn kernels
1 pound skinned halibut, black bass, striped bass, or tilefish, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 large mango, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1/2 cup halved, thinly sliced red onion
1 small fresh jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced
1/2 cup fresh lime juice
1/4 cup minced cilantro
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil over high heat. Add the potatoes; boil for 5 minutes.

Add the corn and boil until the potatoes are tender, about 5 minutes. Drain in a colander set in the sink, place in a large non-reactive bowl (see note), and cool to room temperature, about 1 hour.

Add the fish, mango, onion, jalapeño, lime juice, cilantro, salt, and pepper; toss well. Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or up to 24 hours, tossing occasionally. Serve in lettuce cups, or with baked tortilla chips.

(Note: A nonreactive bowl is one that will not form harmful chemical compounds when acid (as in the lime juice here) touches its surface. Nonreactive materials include heat-safe glass, stainless steel, enameled iron, or enameled steel. Reactive cookware is made of tin, copper, and non-anodized aluminum; certain dyes and chemicals in decorative glass and pottery are also reactive.)

Bake until golden brown, firm to the touch, and somewhat hollow sounding when tapped, about 55 minutes. Cool 1 hour on a wire rack before slicing and serving.

Makes 6 servings

RED COOKING PORK AND POTATOES

"Red cooking" is a traditional Chinese braise, a stew made with soy sauce, sherry, and stock. It's named for the way old-fashioned, unfiltered soy sauce can take on a reddish cast when long-stewed, something modern soy sauces rarely achieve–unless you've gone to Chinatown and bought a bottle of heavy, deep soy sauce. In any event, this is a homey dish, very warm and comforting, a bright aromatic spark for a chilly evening.

2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
6 tablespoons dry sherry
1/4 cup reduced-sodium soy sauce
1/4 cup minced, peeled fresh ginger
1 tablespoon finely grated orange zest
1 tablespoon honey
2 1/4 pounds boneless pork loin, trimmed and cut into 1-inch cubes
2 pounds very small yellow-fleshed potatoes, halved
9 medium scallions, cut into 2-inch strips
2 serrano chiles, seeded and minced
3 garlic cloves, slivered
3 star anise pods
Three 4-inch cinnamon sticks
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1 1/2 pounds Swiss chard, mustard greens, or turnip greens, rinsed (but not dried) and chopped
2 tablespoons rice vinegar

Stir the broth, soy sauce, ginger, sherry, orange zest, and honey in a large pot until the honey dissolves. Add the pork, potatoes, scallions, chiles, garlic, star anise, and cinnamon sticks. Stir well and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer slowly until the pork is meltingly tender, stirring occasionally, about 2 hours. (Alternatively, stir all these ingredients in a slow cooker, cover, and cook on low about 8 to 9 hours.)

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the greens and vinegar. Cover, reduce heat, and cook, stirring occasionally, until wilted and tender, about 12 to 15 minutes. Cover and keep warm on the stove.

To serve, first discard the star anise pods and cinnamon sticks. Divide the greens among serving bowls, then ladle the stew over the greens.

Makes 6 servings.

KOOTU CURRY

Despite that yellow bottle of curry powder found everywhere, curry isn't a set blend of spices but a multitude of variations, some guarded as a family secret for generations. Here's a traditional curry from Kerala, the gorgeous southwestern strip of India, where the spice-laden land meets the Arabian Sea. You'll make your own curry powder–and maybe start your own family secret! But if you want to avoid mixing all those spices, just substitute 2 tablespoons mild yellow curry powder doctored with 1/4 teaspoon cayenne.

1/2 cup plus 6 tablespoons unsweetened coconut (see note)
1 1/2 teaspoons ground ginger
1 1/2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
1 pound plus 2 ounces red-skinned potatoes, cut into 1-inch cubes (3 cups)
2 1/4 cups reduced-sodium vegetable broth
2 1/4 cups peeled, diced eggplant
1 1/2 cups chopped green beans
3/4 cup canned chick peas, drained and rinsed
2 teaspoons canola oil
3/4 cup thinly sliced shallots
1 tablespoon lemon juice

Place 1/2 cup coconut, ginger, coriander, cumin, salt, dry mustard, cinnamon, pepper, and cayenne in a spice grinder or a mini food processor; grind or process until about the consistency of coarse sand.

Stir the potatoes and broth with the spice mixture in a large saucepan; bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer slowly for 10 minutes.

Add the eggplant, green beans, and chick peas. Cover and continue simmering slowly until the vegetables are quite tender, about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, toast the remaining 6 tablespoons coconut in a dry skillet over medium heat until lightly browned. Pour into a bowl and set aside.

Heat oil in the same skillet now set over medium-low heat. Add shallots; cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, soft, and very sweet, about 12 minutes.

Stir the lemon juice into the stew. Serve the stew in bowls, topped with the toasted coconut and frizzled shallots.

(Note: Unsweetened coconut, sometimes called "desiccated coconut," is simply dried, shaved coconut flakes. It's found in gourmet markets, East Indian markets, and health food stores. Do not substitute sweetened coconut, familiar from the baking aisle of most supermarkets.)

Makes 6 servings.