Barcelona
Barcelona is a city obsessed with food, where Catalans frequent everything from local tapas bars to exotic and experimental restaurants inspired by Spain’s famous, trendsetting chef Ferran Adria. While breakfast is usually the smallest and least important meal of the day, Spaniards generally start their day with a steaming cup of cafe con leche (coffee with milk) and sometimes an extra rich hot chocolate accompanied by churros (breakfast fritters). Lunch is Spain’s main attraction and this holds true in Barcelona as well. It is usually always eaten between 2 and 4pm which means that restaurants don’t start filling up till 9 or 10pm for dinner. To hold you over in between meals, visit a local bar and sample an assortment of tapas (bar snacks) which often come in larger portions (raciones) as well. For a hearty lunch, try Catalonia’s staple dish, botifarra amb mongetes, a stew of pork sausage and white beans. If you plan on being in Barcelona over Christmas, you might come across escudella, a traditional stew made with sausage, chickpeas, pasta, and a giant pork meatball for dinner. For essert, try crema catalana, a sweet egg custard topped with caramelized sugar. In summer, lighter dishes such as escalibada (red peppers mixed with eggplant and onions) and esqueixada (red peppers with cod and onions) will fill you up. For a culinary adventure, take a day trip to one of the many farmhouse (masía) restaurants on the outskirts of the city and sample traditional dishes.
Recipes
HotelsThe Hotel Arts Barcelona, located about a 15 minute cab ride to most sights, restaurants, and shopping, is strikingly modern, with avant garde Spanish sculpture and paintings throughout and a giant, glimmering metallic fish designed by architect Frank Gehry outside. Spacious and attractive guest rooms, all done in warm shades of beige, face the harbor; marble bathrooms are large and well equipped. Throughout this 455 room property you’ll find design ideas that could be used successfully in one's home. Doubles from about $300. Carrer de la Marina, 19 21. Tel: 34 93 221 1000. www.ritzcarlton.com/hotels/barcelona. The Grand Marina Hotel is another stylish property designed by I.M. Pei and set right on the waterfront in the Port Vell area. Its 273 rooms are large by European standards and are furnished in clean, minimalist fashion obviously influenced by Japanese design. Las Ramblas is only a few minutes walk away. Ask for a room overlooking the port and out towards the Mediterranean. Doubles from about $250. Moll de Barcelona. Tel: 34 93 603-9000. www.grandmarinahotel.com. Hotel Gran Derby, on a quiet, tree shaded street just off the Diagonal, offers duplex and junior suite guest rooms, many of which have terraces overlooking the hotel's indoor garden. A few rooms are below ground level, but are so well lighted and well designed that the absence of natural light is hardly noticeable. Furnishings include leather chairs and couches. Doubles from about $170, including breakfast. Carrer Loreto 28. Tel: 34 93 322 2062.
RestaurantsRestaurant Jean Luc Figueras is located in the house that once was owned by the Spanish couturier, Balenciaga. Everything about the place is calculated to please the decor, the genial service and, best of all, the menu, much of which derives from traditional Catalan cuisine. Standout dishes include the cold cream of garlic soup laced with oysters and the veal cheeks served with Catalan sausage. Dinner for two, with a good Rioja, about $150. Carrer Santa Teresa 10. Tel: 34 93 415 2877. At Semproniana, the chef excels with unfamiliar pairings such as a salad of octopus and asparagus; or another of smoked fish with mango and yogurt. Main courses, which include lamb stuffed with its own sweetbreads; or a slab of foie gras drizzled with balsamic vinegar and accompanied by Parmesan semifrio are memorable. Ask your server to recommend a good Spanish wine, which should cost less than $20. Dinner for two, without wine, about $80. Off the tourist beat at Calle del Rosello 148. Tel: 34 93 453 1820. About 50 varieties of traditional tapas are on the menu at Ciudad Condal, which is always crowded at lunchtime. Expect fried calamari, Serrano ham, rice with lobster, patatas bravas and all the Catalan standards. Three or four dishes and a tall beer will run to about $35. Rambla de Catalunya 18. Tel: 34 93 318 1997. Hotel and restaurant recommendations courtesy of Passport Newsletter: www.passportnewsletter.com. Subscription required.
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