Cape Town
Cape Town's cultural mix strongly affects its cuisine; various European influences blend with African ingredients and Eastern traditions brought by slaves to this South African city. Chefs also follow the latest Asian and Pacific Rim trends, with a focus on Thai and North Indian cuisine as well, making it possible to try food from a different culture every night. It's important to try truly local delicacies, such as biltong (dried meat), which you can get at specialty shops or even the supermarket. Much of the local street food is Indian-based since there is a sizeable Indian population in Cape Town. Curry dishes like bunny chow and routi are a must, and if you can find a place that makes them, you should try a gatsby (French loaf stuffed with hot chips, French polony, and a salad dressing) which is to Cape Town what the hot dog is to NY.
More traditional dishes found in restaurants include bobotie (kind of like Shepherd's pie, but spicy of Malay origin), boerewors (sausage -- from the Afrikaaner kitchen), bredie (meat-based stew -- Cape Malay), and briyani (rice dish -- Cape Malay/Indian).
Recipes
HotelsThe Mount Nelson, set in spacious, meticulously maintained grounds, may remind you of a country resort, yet it is just a short walk from the city center. It's been Cape Town's premier hotel since it opened in 1899, and its 226 rooms are beautifully furnished. All suites and rooms in the new wing open on to balconies. Service reflects the grandeur of a bygone era in such touches as crystal carafes of sherry and port set out for guests in the evening. High tea in the lounge is a treat. Doubles from about $420. 76 Orange Street. Tel: 27‑21‑483‑1000. www.mountnelson.co.za. Table Bay Hotel is an elegant establishment done up in what can only be described as a contemporary Victorian manner. Its 330 good‑sized rooms and suites are tastefully furnished and cheerfully fresh. Ask for a water view. All up‑to‑date amenities and business services are provided, and there is a fitness center and heated outdoor pool. Doubles from about $350. Prince Alfred Breakwater. Tel: 27‑21‑406‑5000. www.lhw.com. In the nearby suburb of Newlands, the Vineyard Hotel, in six acres of parkland and gardens, occupies a restored 1799 country house to which several extensions have been added. Its 163 rooms are furnished with antiques and period prints, all quite charming. Doubles from $120. Colinton Road, Tel: 27‑21‑683‑3044. www.vineyard.co.za.
RestaurantsThe Hideaway is set in a pleasant Victorian house appropriately hidden on a small street in a choice residential area near the Mount Nelson Hotel. This is a good place to sample a South African favorite, butternut soup. Other satisfying dishes include salad greens with smoked beef, and linguine with oysters and mussels. Dinner for two, with wine, about $50. 2 Wesley Street, Gardens. Tel: 27‑21‑462‑1235. For a broad selection of indigenous South African dishes, head for the Jonkershuis restaurant at the Groot Constantia winery. The menu includes bobotjie (curry‑flavored ground beef with an egg custard topping and served with a stewed peach), smoorsnoek (a kipper‑like smoked fish served with a sweet chutney), bredie (braised lamb), and a tasty yellow "funeral rice," originally prepared to feed paid mourners. A meal for two, with wine, about $20. Tel: 27‑21‑794‑6255. At the dockside restaurant Quay Four you can have a pleasant meal while relaxing at an outdoor table that overlooks the passing fishing trawlers, schooners, and harbor tour boats. The seafood platter includes grilled kreef (crayfish), mussels, prawns, calamari, and local kingclip (an eel-like fish) and there are choices for meat eaters, too. Dinner for two, with wine, about $30. Victoria & Alfred Waterfront. Tel: 27‑21‑419‑2008. Hotel and restaurant recommendations courtesy of Passport Newsletter: www.passportnewsletter.com. Subscription required.
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