Dublin
Dining in Dublin has dramatically improved in recent years making it comparable to other international spots, but beware: Good food comes at a price.Eating out is not particularly common in Ireland, and only in the last decade or so has this become more commonplace among younger Dubliners. Restaurants are expensive, and with real estate prices so high, pricey restaurants prevail. Nevertheless, the dining scene in Dublin is booming. Irish cuisine consists of simple meat dishes and boiled root vegetables such as potato, carrot, turnip, and parsnip; sauces are usually non-existent resulting in dishes that are simple and fuss-free. Cabbage served with salted bacon, together with simple boiled potatoes is another classic example of Irish traditional cooking. Corned beef with cabbage is also a typical dish that should be sampled when in Dublin, but remember that many chefs like to dress these dishes up; you might not find a truly traditional one unless youre invited to a Dubliners house for dinner. Other popular dishes include mutton and beef stews, as well as tripe, meat and blood puddings, and sausages. Seafood is not as prevalent as one might expect, but smoked salmon, oysters, and mussels are all favorites. A new food trend known as "modern Irish" is also extremely popular in Ireland right now. It can be described as French mixed with the natural flavors and products of the Irish countryside and coastal waters. Modern Irish cuisine is truly excellent and Dublin is a great place for you to experiment it.
Recipes
HotelsThe Clarence Hotel, in the lively, bohemian Temple Bar neighborhood, is a sleek accommodation on a par with the Royalton in New York or the Hotel Montalembert in Paris. The 49 elegant guest rooms are done in blonde oak and a color scheme of royal purple and gold. Standard rooms are small, so youre best advised to book a deluxe bedroom with a view over the River Liffey and across the city. Note, the hotel is not air-conditioned. Deluxe doubles from about $280. 6‑8 Wellington Quay. Tel: 800‑628‑8929. www.theclarence.ie. Brooks Hotel stands out among the city's many small accommodations for the fact that it receives the constant attention and involvement of the family that owns and operates it. There are 75 well-appointed and meticulously maintained bedrooms that offer all the hotel amenities and services one could expect in a top-class hotel. Public areas are light and cheerful. Doubles from about $270. 59‑62 Drury Street. Tel: 353‑1‑670‑4000. www.sinnotthotels.com/brooks/default.asp You can expect the privacy and intimacy of a small country hotel at Number 31. The 20 high‑style bedrooms are housed in a stately Georgian mansion located in a quiet neighborhood. Thick walls and high ceilings add a sense of privacy. Elaborate breakfasts are individually cooked to order. Doubles from about $125. 31 Leeson Close, Lower Leeson Street. Tel: 353‑1‑676‑5011. www.number31.ie.
RestaurantsRestaurant Patrick Guilbaud, with two Michelin stars, is a standout among formal Dublin restaurants. Two of the chef's marvelous signature dishes are galette de tourteaux au confit de canard and bouillon de langoustines et sole au laurier. Decor is modern and service highly professional. The wine list is one of the city's best. Dinner for two, without wine, about $100. 21 Upper Merrion Sreet. Tel: 353‑1‑676‑4192. Bang Cafe, a contemporary tri‑level space, is well‑suited to a cooking style that brings some unaccustomed flavors to more familiar Irish ingredients. The roasted Irish scallops with pancetta and mousseline potatoes are very good, as is the breast of Challans duck with potato cake, savoy cabbage and orange marmalade. A goodly number of excellent, but pricey, wines are listed. Dinner for two, without wine, about $90. 11 Merrion Row. Tel: 353‑1‑676‑0898. In Ballsbridge, the Lobster Pot is a small and cozy upstairs restaurant with a good deal of charm and a good measure of culinary panache. On chilly evenings, a cheery fire warms the dining room. Seafood is the specialty, with the day's catch always attractively displayed for customers' appraisal. Several meat dishes are also always on the menu. Dinner for two, without wine, about $60. 9 Ballsbridge Terrace. Tel: 353‑1‑660‑9170 Hotel and restaurant recommendations courtesy of Passport Newsletter: www.passportnewsletter.com. Subscription required.
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