Edinburgh
Scotland is rife with culinary tradition. Although it is a capital city, and therefore full of ethnically diverse dining options, it is proud of its roots. Some of the local ingredients are excellent Atlantic salmon, oatmeal, and venison. The country has also become known as the "Land O' Cakes," and is famous for serving delicious savory and sweet biscuits, cookies, scones, griddle cakes, and the popular shortbread. But perhaps the two most famous Scottish culinary contributions are haggis and malt whiskey. Haggis is a sausage-like dish, where a sheep's innards (heart, lungs, liver) are mixed with seasonings, oatmeal, and suet, and stuffed into the sheep's stomach lining. The ingredients make it sound intimidating but served with mashed potatoes and a strong drink it can be a pleasant – and quintessentially Scotch – experience. Whiskey (spelled without the "e" in Scotland) is a favorite drink at any hour, as well as a popular addition to cooking and sauces. Malt whiskey comes in two forms: blended and single malt. Both gain the characteristic smoky flavor because the barley used is dried over peat fires. One rule to remember when ordering: ask for a whiskey. Don't dare call it "scotch" in front of a Scotsman or things could get ugly.
Recipes
HotelsOne of Edinburgh's most exclusive retreats, the 23‑room Howard, is a traditional Georgian hotel in the New Town historical district. The newest rooms, Lauriston, Marchmont and Trinity, are sumptuously furnished, and each has its own private entrance and 24‑hour butler service. Doubles from about $300, including breakfast. 34 Great King Street. Tel: 44‑131‑557‑3500. www.thehoward.com. The Scotsman Hotel is housed in a listed historical building that was until recently occupied by The Scotsman newspaper. Its 68 rooms will appeal to anyone looking for luxury with a touch of personality and personal service. Each of the rooms and suites is individually designed, but common features include large, comfortable beds and generous baths. The breakfast room, with its copious Scottish breakfast, is a particular treat. Facilities include access to a complete health club and spa on premises. Doubles from about $225. 20 North Bridge Street. Tel: 44‑131‑556‑5565. www.thescotsmanhotel.co.uk. About ten minutes from the center of Edinburgh, Prestonfield House is a 17th century manor standing in a 13‑acre park complete with Highland cattle and strutting peacocks. Five of the 31 guest rooms are in the original mansion, which is adorned with family portraits and stags heads; the rest are in a rather colorless modern extension, but are, nonetheless, spacious and uncluttered. Doubles from about $190. Priestfield Road. Tel: 44‑131‑668‑3346.
RestaurantsThe Witchery by the Castle has been one of Edinburgh's finest restaurants for many years, and it is still the place to go for a romantic meal. The menu is best described as "modern Scottish" with starters such as whisky‑cured salmon and saffron risotto topped with langoustines, and delicious mains including roast monkfish with new potatoes and bacon confit. Desserts, such as pear charlotte and a ginger creme brulee, are sensational! Dinner for two, without wine, about $125. Castlehill. Tel: 44‑131‑225‑5613. The Atrium restaurant is known for its innovative treatment of meats and seafood in unusual combinations, but the basics, such as Aberdeen Angus steaks, are superb, too, and the sticky toffee pudding is legendary. Dinner for two, without wine, about $110. 10 Cambridge Street. Tel: 44‑131‑228‑8882. The Vintners Rooms was built in 1587 by the Wine Merchants Society. It is a small, romantic spot with Persian rugs, candlelight from antique chandeliers, and decorative stucco work. Wine particularly is still the focus here, wonderfully augmented by contemporary versions of standard Scottish fare. Try the sweet, briny West Coast oysters or the excellent smoked salmon to start, followed by a warm scallop and squid salad; salmon fillets in dried tomato pesto; or roast grouse with tarragon and lentils. The sticky toffee pudding is a bit like gingerbread in caramel sauce, but still a treat. Dinner for two, without wine, about $80. 87 Giles Street, Leith. Tel: 44‑131‑554‑6767. Hotel and restaurant recommendations courtesy of Passport Newsletter: www.passportnewsletter.com. Subscription required.
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