Oaxaca
Oaxaca is one of Mexico's most famous culinary destinations. The best way to sample all that it has to offer is by strolling through any of the area's open-air marketplaces. For the adventurous, grab a small plastic bag or paper cone filled with chapulines: fried grasshoppers seasoned with salt, chili powder, and lime juice. Chapulines come in a variety of sizes depending on the season. Their crunchy texture and earthy flavor are surprisingly easy to swallow. Quesilla is a local cheese, stringy and good for melting, much like mozzarella. Quesilla is served in everything from stuffed poblano peppers to enchiladas. But perhaps the most famous Oaxacan creation is mole negro, or black mole. Traditional mole negro can take hours or even days to prepare and every family has a secret recipe: a variation that includes chilies, spices, tomatoes, chocolate, bread, and ground nuts. The smoky, slightly grainy sauce has layer upon layer of flavor and is most often served with shredded chicken or turkey. Also be on the lookout for mole amarillo (yellow mole), mole verde (green mole), and mole coloradito (red mole.) The beverage of choice in Oaxaca is Mezcal, a fermented and distilled liquor from the Agave cactus. Mezcal is notorious for having a worm in the bottle which Oaxacans say is responsible for its distinctive flavor and aroma. Oaxacans are proud that the cuisine enjoyed today predates the arrival of the Spanish, and is closely related to the food enjoyed by their Indian ancestors. Try to schedule a trip in the fall when the region holds the Food of the Gods festival, celebrating their culinary heritage with tastings, cooking classes, and more.
Recipes
HotelsThe Camino Real, located in what was the convent of Santa Catalina, has preserved the original style and grace of the property. Many of the ancestral walls still bear the ancient frescoes with which they were adorned. Among the 90 accommodations, the deluxe interior rooms overlooking the hotel's courtyards and gardens are quietest and provide the most privacy. Doubles from about $200. Calle Cinco de Mayo 300. Tel: 52-951-501‑6100. www.caminoreal.com/oaxaca. Casa Oaxaca has eight rooms fashioned out of what was a 17th century colonial house and situated around a central patio. All are good‑sized and made to appear even larger by their extremely high ceilings. Furnishings are unfussy, quite right for the spare elegance of the whole hotel. Most bathrooms are small and include showers rather than tubs. Doubles from about $120, including breakfast. Calle Garcia Vigil, 407. Tel: 52‑951‑514 4173. www.casa‑oaxaca.com. Las Mariposas is an old colonial house in the historical center, consisting of seven hotel rooms, with small but pretty bathrooms, and six studio apartments with kitchens. Not the place for anyone who prefers big rooms and institutionalized service, but it's an ideal spot if you're looking for a comfortable accommodation in a friendly and helpful atmosphere. Doubles from about $40, including continental breakfast. Pino Suarez, 517. Tel: 52‑951‑515‑5854. www.mexonline.com/mariposas.htm.
RestaurantsOf the many restaurants overlooking the city's vibrant Zocalo with its evening promenaders, El Portal de la Soledad is the best. The menu is strictly Oaxacan, and grilled lamb is the house specialty, although a more interesting choice is the combination plate containing four varieties of mole and grilled chicken to dip into them. Dinner for two, with beer, about $30. Portal Benito Juarez 116 altos (second floor). Tel: 52‑951‑514‑0533. Another satisfying dining spot for its location even more than for its food is a balcony table at El Asador Vasco overlooking the Zocalo. The menu is a blend of Mexican and Basque selections: chicken mole, garlicky shrimp, spicy tortilla soup, and bacalao Viscayo all are quite good. The wine list, featuring Spanish Riojas, is one of the better ones in town. Dinner for two, without wine, about $35. Portal de Flores #11. Tel: 52‑951‑514‑4755. For a long list of Oaxacan specialties the place to go is Casa de la Abuela, on the Zocalo. This is where you should try chapulines, fried grasshoppers served with salt and lime juice and eaten wrapped in a flour tortilla. Several types of moles with chicken or pork are favorites here. Dinner for two, with beer, about $30. Hidalgo Avenue 616, upstairs. Tel: 52‑951‑516‑3544. Hotel and restaurant recommendations courtesy of Passport Newsletter: www.passportnewsletter.com. Subscription required.
| 
![]("/food/images/spacers/spacer.gif"){kind=spacer}
