San Juan
San Juan prides itself on traditional cocina criolla (Caribbean Creole food) so much so, that restaurants in the city that serve this cuisine are recognized by the government. Puerto Rican cuisine uses local ingredients blended with influences over the years (Spain, the Americas) to create truly authentic food. At finer restaurants you can find typical island seafood: Caribbean lobster (sweeter than its Maine cousin), red snapper, conch (either fried in fritters or stuffed). The most popular starch is rice, which is served in soups and alongside fish, but also found in the slow-simmered, Puerto Rican specialty arroz con pollo (chicken with rice.) The real culinary attraction is found most often with the street vendors who sell foods, frozen treats, and deep fried snack foods. Fried cod fritters, croquettes with banana and pork, and mini meat and cheese turnovers (called pastelillos) are popular with the locals. Tropical fruit is abundant on the island and serves as the base for many drinks, both fresh juices and alcoholic beverages (though those are mainly for tourists). Fresh pineapple, mango, coconut, lime, and papaya are used in cooking and baking as well. For a unique fruit treat, suck on a tamarind popsicle and experience the exotic sweet/salty/sour flavor the Caribbean favorite has to offer. For a savory fruit dish, nibble on tostones: fried, crushed, and then re-fried plantains. Plantains are a cousin of the banana, though starchier, and are found alongside roast pork, rice and beans, or as a bar snack. For java junkies, or anyone seeking a buzz-worthy treat, sample Puerto Rican coffee. The island gives other coffee-producing countries a run for their money, since they grow Arabica beans (the kind used in Italian coffee, for example) as opposed to Robusta beans (the beans used for mass-produced and many American coffees.) The climate, roasting techniques, and soil create the perfect cuppa'. The best way to enjoy the coffee would be with a straight up espresso, but for the less inclined it can be mixed with hot milk for a traditional cafe con leche.
Recipes
HotelsThe Water Club is a boutique hotel on a residential street bordering Isla Verde beach. Behind its Art Deco facade are 84 rooms, all angled to allow water views (those in the front obviously have the best views). Sheer white curtains cover the walls of guest rooms, which are compact, functional, and well‑equipped with the latest electronics. The tenth floor rooftop bar is a very popular spot, especially on weekends. Doubles from about $300. 2 Tartak Street, Isla Verde. Tel: 888‑265‑6699. www.waterclubsanjuan.com. Old San Juan's legendary Hotel El Convento is a 58‑room luxury property that began life 350 years ago as a Carmelite convent. Guest rooms occupy the three top floors surrounding a central courtyard. The lower floors contain restaurants and shops, and the pool and fitness center are on the roof. Rooms are well‑proportioned and provide the full range of luxury amenities. Doubles from about $200. 100 Cristo Street. Tel: 800‑468‑2779. www.elconvento.com. In Ocean Park, an upscale residential neighborhood east of Condado, the stylish Numero Uno Guest House is one of San Juan's nicest small hotels. The 12 quiet, comfortable rooms are well‑designed, though not luxurious, with tile floors and solid wooden furniture. The beach is at the doorstep. Ocean-view doubles from about $170, including breakfast. 1 Santa Ana. Tel: 787‑726‑5010.
RestaurantsLa Piccola Fontana is one of the most underrated tables in this city of great restaurants. The atmosphere is polished and serene, and the food very well executed. Try the marinated fish carpaccio with pink peppercorns, the grilled veal chops, and the house‑made cannelloni. Dinner for two, without wine, about $100. 6063 Avenida Isla Verde. Tel: 787‑791‑1000. Ajili‑Mojili draws lines that sometimes stretch around the block, but it's worth the wait (or the effort to make a reservation) for this cheerful, family restaurant that presents perfectly prepared traditional Puerto Rican dishes. Try the plantain spider fritters, shrimp with ajili mojili sauce, seafood asopao (a soupy rice), and the custardy tembeque. Dinner for two, without beverage, about $75. 1052 Avenida Ashford. Tel: 787‑725‑9195. A short drive from Condado, but miles from the tourist scene, La Casita Blanca serves up excellent local fare in the most casual of settings. Oversized onions or heads of garlic hold down stacks of napkins on the plastic tablecloths, and the menu is a chalkboard propped up on a chair. But the hearty criolla food, perhaps salt cod with eggplant or veal strips with sauteed onions, is very tasty. Dinner for two, without drinks, about $25. 351 Calle Tapia. Tel: 787‑726‑5501. Hotel and restaurant recommendations courtesy of Passport Newsletter: www.passportnewsletter.com. Subscription required.
|
![]("/food/images/spacers/spacer.gif"){kind=spacer}
