Wines from the Alsace region of France seem as if they were crafted in heaven to fit seamlessly with its food. And, as an added bonus, it's easy to understand their labels and select these wines, since they are virtually the only traditional wines in France that are named by grape variety. If you’re serving quiche, a light little Pinot Blanc would be just the thing. If you're up for a heartier, tarter Choucroute Garnie--an amazing pile-up of sauerkraut and sausages--it's time for a heartier, tarter Riesling. If Alsace's stunningly powerful cheese, Muenster, is on the table, it should be next to a bottle of Alsace's stunningly powerful Gewurztraminer.

And then there's foie gras. And it is also here that you'll find the foie gras terrine's most faithful partner: Alsatian Pinot Gris, of course.

Shopper’s Tips

• The basic bottlings, which usually cost between $12 and $25 a bottle, are dry. But if the grapes were harvested later--which will be indicated on the bottle by the words "Vendange Tardive"--there's a good chance that the wine, in addition to being more expensive (like $40 to $100), will also be a little sweeter.

• If you have the bank account and desire to go for the dessert-wine version--and there are those who think this is the ultimate foie-gras-mate--you'll find the Pinot Gris "Selection de Grains Nobles" to be one of the world's most exotic and irresistible sweet wines.

• If money is no object--you should look, above all, for the incredible, pricey Pinot Gris made by the winery called Zind-Humbrecht. Other great high-roller possibilities are Domaine Weinbach and Marc Kreydenweiss. For the rest of us, fortunately, there are lots of producers making Pinot Gris at slightly less lofty tariffs. In this group, I would list Marcel Deiss, Trimbach, Bott-Geyl, and Mittnacht-Klack. Perhaps the best winery in Alsace today for price/value relationship is Albert Mann.

Recommendations
Any time you have the instinct to pull out or order a Chardonnay with your meal, try a dry Alsatian Pinot Gris instead. If you love it--as I suspect you will--you can join the ABC Club (Anything But Chardonnay)!

-David Rosengarten