Steven Raichlen, host of the PBS series Barbecue University and author of Ribs, The Barbecue Bible, BBQ USA and more than 25 other books on barbecue and grilling.
"Barbecue is democratic food with a lowercase "d" - every kind of person in America does it and there's something for everyone. I especially love Kentucky barbecue because it is still so localized," says Steven. "Today you can go anywhere and find pulled pork and brisket, but barbecued mutton - I'm not even talking lamb - is pure uniqueness. You find it within only maybe a 40-mile radius of Owensboro. And there really is a magic that happens when you smoke big stinky mutton for 12 to 15 hours - it loses its gamy flavor and all you're left with is this rich, satisfying meat."
Serve it with: "Kentucky's 'dip' is the only black barbecue sauce I know of in the world," says Steven. "It gets that color from a hefty dose of Worcestershire sauce, which is blended with salt, garlic, lemon, allspice and brown sugar."
Pro tip: "True Kentucky-style mutton can be hard to source and isn't to everyone's taste, but it's easy enough to cook a leg of lamb the same way," explains Steven. "The only thing you'll need to adjust is the cooking time: Tender lamb takes closer to 4 hours to cook instead of 6."