Special equipment: Metal cannoli tubes (available at cooking-supply stores or online)
Make the dough: Sift together the flour, granulated sugar and salt into a medium bowl. Work in the butter with your fingers until the mixture becomes coarse and sandy. Add the egg yolk and wine and mix with a wooden spoon to make a smooth dough. Spread a piece of plastic wrap on a flat surface and place the dough in the center. Wrap the plastic loosely around it and press the dough into a disk. Let rest in the fridge while you make the filling.
Make the filling: Whisk the ricotta in a medium bowl until smooth. Sift in the confectioners¿ sugar, cinnamon and allspice. Whisk to blend.in a separate bowl, beat the heavy cream with a whisk until fairly stuff then gently fold into the ricotta mixture using a rubber spatula. Fold in the mini chocolate chips. Zest the lemon and fold it into the ricotta. Refrigerate for 30 minutes to an hour while you make the shells.
Make the shells: Fill a large Dutch oven with 2 inches of canola oil; heat to 360 degrees F. meanwhile, sift an even layer of flour onto a flat surface. Dust the dough with flour and roll out slightly. Cut the dough into 4 pieces. Working with 1 piece of dough at a time, roll out until about 1/8 inch thick. With a paring knife, cut out 3- to 4-inch rounds using a small bowl as a guide. You should have about 24 rounds total. Wrap each round of dough around a cannoli mold, brushing with a little beaten egg to seal the seam and ensure the dough won¿t slide off the mild. Flare out the edges of the dough slightly (this lets the oil penetrate each shell as it fries). Working in small batches, hold one end of each mold and carefully add to hot oil. Fry the shells until crispy, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the shells from the oil using tongs and transfer to a baking sheet lined with paper towels. Let cool slightly. Using a kitchen towel, grip the mold in one hand and hold the shell in the other. Twist the shell slightly to pull it off the mold; set aside to cool. Repeat to make more shells.
Fill the cannoli: Using a spatula, transfer the refrigerated filling to a pastry bag and snip the corner. Just before serving, pipe the filling into the shells from both sides so it runs through the whole shell. Dust the cannoli with confectioners' sugar.
Photograph by David Malosh