Dungeness Crab Bisque

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4 Dungeness crabs

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 carrot, chopped

2 stalks celery, chopped

3 tomatoes, chopped

5 cloves garlic, chopped

5 shallots, chopped

3 sprigs fresh tarragon leaves, chopped

3 tablespoons Cognac

2 cups dry white wine

2 tablespoons tomato paste

10 cups fish stock or water

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Cayenne pepper

Pinch dried thyme

1 bay leaf

2 cups heavy cream

1 lemon, juiced

1 tablespoon minced chives or parsley leaves