In a Dutch oven or large heavy pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the flour, reduce the heat to medium, and cook, stirring constantly with a large wooden spoon, to make a thick roux almost the color of milk chocolate, 15 to 20 minutes.

Add the onions, bell peppers, and celery, and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the garlic and bay leaves, and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds.

Place the tomato paste in a small bowl and whisk in the sherry to blend. Add to the pot, and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Add the stock, and whisk to blend. Add the tomatoes and their juices, the sugar, salt, black pepper, and red pepper, and cook, stirring, occasionally, for 20 to 25 minutes.

Add 2 cups of the court-bouillon and bring to a simmer. Season the trout, shrimp, and oysters with Essence. Add the shrimp and trout and cook for 3 minutes. Add the oysters and cook until the oysters curl, 1 to 2 minutes. Divide equally between 2 large soup bowls, and repeat with the remaining ingredients in 2 batches. Spoon 1/2 cup of rice into the center of each bowl and serve immediately.

Combine all ingredients thoroughly and store in an airtight jar or container.

Yield: about 2/3 cup

Recipe from "New New Orleans Cooking", by Emeril Lagasse and Jessie Tirsch. Published by William and Morrow, 1993.