In a medium pot, bring the stock, salt, and pepper, to a simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to low and cover to keep warm.

In a large pot, heat the oil and melt the butter until foamy over medium-high heat. Add the shallots, garlic, and duck liver, if using, and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the mushrooms, and cook, stirring, until the mushrooms give off their liquid, about 3 minutes. Add the rice, stirring to coat with oil, and cook, stirring constantly, until opaque, about 2 minutes. Add the wine to deglaze the pan and cook, stirring, until the liquid is reduced by half, about 1 minute. Reduce the heat to medium. Add 1 cup of the hot stock, and cook, stirring constantly until nearly all the liquid has been absorbed. Continue adding more stock 1/2 cup at a time as it is absorbed, and cook, stirring constantly, until the rice is tender and just al dente, about 12 minutes total cooking time. When all the stock has been added, fold in the duck meat, reserved pumpkin butter, thyme, and oregano. Add 1/2 cup of the cheese and mix well. Remove from the heat.

Place the pumpkins in the center of 4 large serving plates and surround each with a sprinkling of pumpkin seeds. Divide the risotto among the pumpkins and top each serving with 2 tablespoons of the remaining Parmesan. Place the lids on the pumpkins and serve immediately.

Preheat the oven to 500 degrees F.

Remove all visible fat from the duck and with a fork, prick the skin all over without piercing the meat. Sprinkle the duck with the salt and pepper. Place on a rack in a roasting pan and roast for 40 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 400 degrees F and roast until the juices in the thigh run clear when pierced with a knife, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and let sit until cool enough to handle.

Remove the skin and discard. Remove the meat from the bones and discard the bones. Shred the meat and serve, or store refrigerated, tightly covered, for up to 3 days.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

With a sharp, heavy knife carefully cut away the top 1/3 from each pumpkin. Scrape away the fibers from the insides and tops, and discard, reserving the seeds. Place the pumpkins and lids on 2 large baking sheets. Place 4 tablespoons of the butter inside each pumpkin.

In a small bowl, combine the zest, cinnamon, salt, and allspice, and mix well. Divide the mixture among the 4 pumpkins. Cover the pumpkins and their lids tightly with foil and bake for 1 hour and 15 minutes. Remove from the oven, uncover, and bake until tender, about 15 minutes.

Remove from the oven and let sit until cool enough to handle. Drain the butter from the pumpkins and reserve for the risotto.

Place the reserved seeds in a large colander. Rinse well under cold running water and pat dry. Place in a large bowl with the vegetable oil and Essence, and stir well to coat. Spread evenly on 2 baking sheets and toast until golden brown and fragrant, 1 hour. Remove from the oven and stir with a spatula to prevent the seeds from sticking. Cool on the baking sheet. (The seeds can be prepared up to 2 days in advance and once cool, kept in an airtight container until ready to serve.)

Combine all ingredients thoroughly and store in an airtight jar or container.

Yield: about 2/3 cup

Recipe from "New New Orleans Cooking", by Emeril Lagasse and Jessie Tirsch. Published by William and Morrow, 1993.