Roasted Arctic Char with Leeks and Horseradish Cream

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Fish:

1 pound leeks, white and light green parts (about 4 large leeks)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme leaves

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper 

1/2 cup apple cider

1/3 cup heavy cream

1 tablespoon brandy or Calvados

1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

1 whole book-boned arctic char (about 4 pounds),* head and tail removed, if desired

Olive oil, for brushing

Sauce:

1 cup sour cream

1/3 cup prepared horseradish, drained

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper