San Francisco Cioppino

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Stew Base:

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 1/2 cups sliced onion

2 tablespoons minced garlic

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

1/4 cup tomato paste

1 cup dry white wine

2 1/2 pounds vine-ripened tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped

1 red bell pepper, trimmed, seeded, and diced

2 tablespoons minced flat-leaf parsley leaves

1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme leaves

1 bay leaf

3 cups fish stock or 1 cup bottled clam broth mixed with 2 cups chicken broth, homemade or low-sodium canned

1/4 cup julienned fresh basil leaves

Seafood:

12 little neck clams

1 cooked Dungeness crab, chopped into large pieces, or 2 Alaskan king crab claws, cracked and quartered

12 mussels

1 pound large shrimp, butterflied in the shell, and deveined

1/2 pound cleaned squid, cut into rings, and tentacles halved

1/2 pound sea scallops, trimmed, or firm-fleshed fish, like halibut, cut into 1-inch cubes

Serving suggestion: hot crusty sourdough bread