Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat to 450 degrees F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper and lightly oil. Mix the chile powder, cumin, coriander, cloves, 2 teaspoons salt and 3/4 teaspoon pepper in a large bowl. Add the wings and toss to coat.

Spread the wings, spaced apart, on the prepared baking sheets. Bake, turning once, until browned and crisp, about 40 minutes.

Hot:

Ancho chile powder gives these a slightly smoky kick; serious wing lovers will want to step up the heat.

Hotter:

Put 2 jalapenos, 1/2 cup cilantro, 1/4 teaspoon cayenne, the juice of 1 lime and 1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil in a food processor and finely chop. Toss with the wings; marinate 2 hours. Brush off the marinade and rub and bake as directed, omitting the black pepper.

Hottest:

Marinate the wings in the jalapeno mixture (see above), then rub and bake as directed. About 5 minutes before they're finished baking, brush with a mixture of 3 tablespoons each honey and Sriracha sauce (hot Asian chili sauce).

Photograph by Charles Masters