Meanwhile, heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook until crisp, about 4 minutes per side; transfer to a paper towel-lined plate. Cool slightly, then break the bacon into pieces.

Make the dressing: Whisk the mustard, pickle, pickle juice, ketchup, mayonnaise, vinegar, sugar and 2 tablespoons water in a large bowl. Add 1/4 teaspoon salt, and pepper to taste.

Add the french fries, bacon, tomatoes, red onion, romaine and cheddar cheese to the bowl with the dressing and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Divide the salad among bowls. Sprinkle with sesame seeds, if desired.

Photograph by Charles Masters