Pulse the peppercorns in a spice grinder until coarsely ground. Add the salt and sugar and pulse a few more times. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the olive oil, lemon zest, and garlic. Microwave until hot but not boiling, about 45 seconds. Let cool.

Cook's Note: This rub—inspired by jarred lemon-pepper seasoning, but oh- so-much fresher—is incredibly versatile. We love the bright flavor it gives to fish, chicken, and vegetables. It will keep, covered and refrigerated, for a couple of weeks.

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