1. In a large saucepan, combine potatoes, 1 teaspoon salt, and enough cold water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat. Lower heat to maintain a simmer and cook until fork tender, about 45 minutes. Drain potatoes and return to pan. Shake pan over medium heat to dry potatoes, about 1 minute.

2. Halve potatoes crosswise. Working in batches, press through a ricer, cut side down, into a bowl. Discard skins, and repeat with remaining potatoes. Immediately stir butter into warm potatoes. (Alternatively, peel and mash potatoes)

3. Heat milk in saucepan over medium-high heat until hot but not boiling; stir into potatoes. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and nutmeg, if desired. Serve immediately.