Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, cook the bacon in a large skillet over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until it begins to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the onion, garlic, red pepper flakes and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until the mixture is brick red, about 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook until just tender, about 3 minutes.

When the water boils, add the pasta and cook until al dente, about 6 minutes. Meanwhile, add 1 cup of the cooking water to the skillet with the sauce; stir and bring to a low simmer over medium heat.

Reserve 1/4 cup cooking water, then drain the pasta and add to the skillet along with the butter and herbs. Cook, tossing, until the pasta absorbs some of the sauce, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the reserved cooking water to loosen, if needed. Divide among bowls and top with cheese.

Per serving: Calories 716; Fat 38 g (Saturated 14 g); Cholesterol 61 mg; Sodium 1,156 mg; Carbohydrate 73 g; Fiber 5 g; Protein 23 g

Photograph by Andrew Purcell