Rinse fish and pat dry. Season to taste inside and out. Place fresh herbs inside cavity of fish. Lightly oil both sides of fish. Wrap seasoned, oiled fish with pancetta that is thinly sliced and unrolled. Wrap fish loosely with the pancetta leaving head and tail exposed.
Set fish in center of cooking grate. Cover grill. Cook until opaque, but still moist in thickest part (10 to 15 minutes). Turn once during cooking. Remove from grill. Peel off top layer of skin. Slide fish onto platter. To serve slide a wide metal spatula between flesh and bones, and lift out each portion.
Courtesy of Elizabeth Karmel