Prepare the gnocchi according to the recipe and hold in oil until ready to cook.

In a 12 to 14-inch saute pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and onion and sweat 6 minutes, until soft and translucent. Add the thyme and cuttlefish and increase heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring regularly, for 5 more minutes. Add the wine and salt and pepper to taste and reduce heat back to a simmer. Cook, uncovered, for 40 minutes, until the mixture has become of a ragu consistency, adjusting the moisture with a bit more wine or olive oil as necessary.

Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil and add 2 tablespoons salt. Drop the gnocchi in the boiling water and cook until they are floating aggressively, about 2 minutes. Drain the gnocchi, reserving the cooking water, and add them to the pan with the ragu. Add a little cooking water if sauce is too thick. Toss over medium-high heat 30 seconds, then serve immediately in 4 warmed pasta bowls.

Boil the whole potatoes until they are soft (about 45 minutes). While still warm, peel and pass through vegetable mill onto clean pasta board.

Set 6 quarts of water to boil in a large spaghetti pot. Set up ice bath with 6 cups ice and 6 cups water near boiling water.

Make well in center of potatoes and sprinkle all over with flour, using all the flour. Place egg and salt in center of well and using a fork, stir into flour and potatoes, just like making normal pasta. Once egg is mixed in, bring dough together, kneading gently until a ball is formed. Knead gently another 4 minutes until ball is dry to touch.

Roll baseball-sized balls of dough into 3/4-inch diameter dowels and cut dowels into 1-inch long pieces. Flick pieces off of fork or concave side of cheese grater until dowel is finished. Drop these pieces into boiling water and cook until they float (about 2 minutes). Meanwhile, continue with remaining dough, forming dowels, cutting into 1-inch pieces and flicking off of fork. As gnocchi float to top of boiling water, remove them to ice bath. Continue until all have been cooled off. Let sit several minutes in bath and drain from ice and water. Toss with 1/2 cup canola oil and store covered in refrigerator up to 48 hours until ready to serve.

Yield: 12 servings