Beyond Spam: The Basics of Hawaiian Cuisine

For most mainlanders, the words "Hawaiian food" evoke little more than pineapples, macadamia nuts and Spam. In truth, Hawaiian cooking an authentic East-West fusion that blends the foods of 19th-century immigrant laborers from China, Japan, Korea, the Philippines and Portugal with those of indigenous Hawaiians, and flavors it all with a heaping helping of midcentury culinary Americana, thanks to the islands' enormous military presence. Only in such a remote crossroads culture could burgers evolve into something to be served atop rice, could Spam be treated as if it were a piece of belly tuna, or could Portuguese sausage and Japanese fishcakes find their way into a bowl of Chinese noodles. Today, the islands' remarkable culinary heritage is finally getting some overdue recognition, with brilliant, young Hawaiian-born chefs such as Ravi Kapur (of Liholiho Yacht Club, in San Francisco) and Chung Chow (of Noreetuh, in New York City) making headlines, and poke shops sprouting up along the West Coast. This guide breaks down some of the glories of this undersung cuisine.