Heat the EVOO in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the pancetta and render until it begins to crisp, then add the ham and stir a minute or 2 more. Add the veal and break it up into fine crumbles, until lightly brown. Then add the garlic, bay leaf and onions, and season with salt and pepper and a little nutmeg. Let the onions cook, partially covered, for a few minutes, then stir in the tomato paste until fragrant. Add the wine and heat. Then add the milk, reduce the heat to low and simmer gently 3 hours. Add a little stock or water whenever the sauce gets too thick, up to 2 cups over the course of the cooking time. Cool and refrigerate or freeze for make-ahead meal.

To serve, boil the pasta in salted water to al dente; reserve 1 cup starchy cooking water just before draining. Add to the sauce, toss with the pasta and some cheese and serve in shallow bowls.