Owner/Chef Bob Kinkead serves this savory creation at the four-star Kinkead's, an American brasserie known for its seafood and located on Pennsylvania Avenue's historic Red Lion Row in Washington, D.C. "It involves making a Bavarian cream-a fruit puree with whipped cream and gelatin added," he says. "Think of it as an elegant Jell-O, but not as rubbery." Also the author of Kinkead's Cookbook (Ten Speed Press, 2005), the chef says this recipe has nearly infinite varations. "Almost any puree of fruit can be used to make a Bavarian cream-peaches, purple plums, raspberries, mangoes and apricots. Use this equation: two envelopes of gelatin to two cups puree and one cup whipped cream. And adjust the sugar added to the puree according to the particular fruit's natural sweetness." NOTE: In our presentation, we include a white chocolate ball that can be purchased at bakery supply stores. Also, this ladyfinger recipe makes about 30 more than you need for this charlotte; freeze the rest for another use, such as tiramisu or snacking. For a charlotte, the ladyfingers should be made a day in advance and allowed to dry out. The extra moisture of the liqueurs and Bavarian tend to make fresh ladyfingers soggy. You can also use store-bought ladyfingers.