Dip the cheese slices in cold water, then flour them lightly.
Heat 1/4-inch olive oil in a wide pan until smoking. Fry cheese slices 30 to 40 seconds on each side until golden brown. Remove and drain briefly on paper towels. Warm ouzo over a low flame. Put slices of cheese in a cast metal serving dish, pour ouzo over the slices and, standing clear, ignite the ouzo.
Allow to burn briefly, then extinguish fire with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. Serve immediately.
Suggested drink: Kourtakis Retsina of Attica
Recipe courtesy of Costas Perifanos at Dionysos Restaurant in New York