Soak apple wood smoking chips in water, about 15 minutes. Set up a grill for indirect cooking over medium heat (leave one side with no heat source). Drain the wood chips. If using a gas grill, put the chips in a smoker box and place over the heat source; if using a charcoal grill, place the wet chips directly on top of the coals.
Make the rub: Combine 1/4 cup salt, 2 tablespoons pepper, the garlic powder, oregano, celery seeds, paprika, chili powder and ancho chile powder in a bowl. Set aside about one-third of the mixture for sprinkling on the ribs when finished.
Make the ribs: Combine the vinegar, lemon juice and 1/4 cup water in a spritzer bottle. This will be used for basting, which will keep the ribs moist and tender and help the rub stick.
Rub the ribs all over with the remaining dry rub, then put them on the cooler side of the grill (not over direct heat; you want the ribs to cook low and slow). Cover and cook 2 hours and 30 minutes, spraying the ribs with the vinegar mixture two or three times throughout the cooking. When the ribs are just about done, give them a final spray and sprinkle liberally with the reserved dry rub so the finished ribs are coated with all that delicious flavor.
Photographs by James Baigrie
Courtesy of Tyler Florence for Food Network Magazine