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For the goat: Whisk together the curry, soy sauce, fish sauce, chili powder, onion powder, garlic powder, brown sugar, black pepper, sugar, cayenne, celery seed and kaffir leaves in a half hotel pan or braising pan large enough to just fit the goat necks. Place the goat necks in the pan and fill with cold water to cover by 1 inch. Marinate in the refrigerator at least 8 hours and up to 16 hours.
Prepare a smoker with oak or hickory wood and heat it to 225 degrees F. Remove the goat necks from the marinade, place in the smoker, and smoke until golden brown and bark has formed on the outside of the meat, 6 to 7 hours. Reserve the marinade in the pan.
Preheat the oven to 250 degrees F. Return the goat necks to the marinade in the pan, cover tightly with foil and braise in the oven until just fork tender, 4 to 5 hours.
For the rice: Rinse the rice under cold water until the water runs clear. Combine the rice, chicken stock and coconut milk in a saucepan, cover, and simmer 8 minutes. Fluff the rice with a fork and continue to simmer, covered, until the rice has absorbed the liquid fully. Transfer the rice to a large mixing bowl and carefully fold in the ghee without crushing the rice. Keep warm.
Melt the butter in a cast iron pan over medium-high heat. Remove the goat necks from the marinade, add them to the pan and baste with the butter. As soon as the butter begins to brown, add the dried cherries and wine and bring to a boil. Add 2 1/2 cups of the marinade from the braising pan and reduce to a sauce nappe that is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.
Scoop the rice on serving platters. Top with the goat necks and cherries. Gently pour some sauce over the meat and garnish with cilantro.
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