Place the chicken stock in a medium pot and bring to a simmer. Heat the butter in a large pot or Dutch oven until it foams. Add the onion, season with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper, and cook 5 minutes until softened. Add the rice and stir well to coat with the butter. Cook 5 minutes until rice is opaque. Add wine, stir, and cook until it has been absorbed. Lower the heat to low, add one ladle of the chicken stock, and stir. Cook, stirring, until the stock has been absorbed. Continue adding stock and stirring frequently until rice is al dente and most of the stock is gone. Reserve 1/2 cup stock for finishing the dish.
In the meantime, cut the mushrooms into slices or wedges according to their natures. Keep the various types separate. Heat a large nonstick skillet over high heat for 1 minute then add some olive oil. Add one type of mushroom, just enough to cover the bottom of the pan. Shake and season with some salt and pepper. Cook until mushrooms are lightly browned, then add some of the garlic, toss, and saute one minute until its flavor is released. Then remove the mushrooms from the pan and reserve. Return the pan to the heat, add more olive oil and when it smokes add another batch of mushrooms. Continue in this way until all mushrooms have been cooked, wiping out pan occasionally when required.
When rice is al dente and mushrooms are all cooked, add mushrooms to the rice and stir well. Add some or all of the reserved stock if necessary to give risotto a slightly soupy character. Add grated cheese and epazote, taste and adjust seasoning, and serve immediately.
Copyright 1997, M.S. Milliken & S. Feniger, all rights reserved