Falling behind on your fancy dessert trends? That’s the way the cookie crumbles. No, really. The new thing in upscale restaurant desserts is totally a comfy old thing: the humble cookie.

According to the food-service industry publication Nation’s Restaurant News, fine-dining establishments across the United States are increasingly featuring cookies as a droolworthy dessert offering, sometimes paired with a glass of milk, completing the after-school-snack appeal.

Some chefs go big, and some like it hot. At Sandbar, in Cold Spring Harbor, New York, the dessert menu’s chocolate chip cookie arrives at the table warm from the oven, nestled in its own iron skillet and accompanied by a vanilla milkshake, NRN notes. Others embrace variety (the spice of cookie life). Gramercy Tavern, in New York City, offers a Cookie Plate featuring a rotating, seasonal assortment of cookies, replacing the customary glass of milk with eggnog, at the appropriate time of year. (Some places offer the milk pairing spiced — or even spiked.)

And still others are innovating, exploring and pushing past the boundaries of the tried and true. The Milk and Cookies truffle offered at the Chicago restaurant Oriole, for instance, “looks like a black and white cookie and is filled with cookie dough and a liquid milk center” and is “intended to provide a nostalgic milk and cookies experience in one bite,” the NRN reports.

If contemplating all this has you in a cookie mood, you can make dinner reservations and save room for dessert — or, better yet, just get baking! You can find batches and batches of cookie recipes here.

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