In a 12 to 14-inch saute pan, heat 4 tablespoons of the oil until smoking. Saute the kidneys in the oil until browned, about 5 minutes. Cut them into 1/4-inch pieces, place in a medium bowl and allow to cool.
To the bowl with the kidneys, add the bread crumbs, 1/2 cup parsley, pecorino, eggs and nutmeg, and mix lightly. Stuff this mixture into the pocket of each short rib and tie the opening closed with butcher's twine. In a large, heavy-bottomed skillet, heat the remaining oil until smoking, season the meat with salt and pepper, and brown on all sides in the oil, working in batches if necessary to avoid overcrowding the pan. Remove the ribs from the pan and set aside.
Add the onion and oregano to the same pan and cook 8 to 10 minutes, until the onion is soft and golden brown. Add the wine and tomato sauce and bring to a boil. Return the meat to the pan, reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 2 hours, checking for evaporation every 15 minutes and adjusting with more wine and sauce as necessary.
Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil and add 2 tablespoons salt. Cook the penne in the boiling water according to package directions, until tender yet al dente.
When the meat is fork-tender, remove from the sauce and set aside. Add the cooked penne to the sauce, toss over high heat 1 minute to coat, and serve. Serve the meat as a second course.
In a 3-quart saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook until soft and light golden brown, about 8 to 10 minutes. Add the thyme and carrot and cook 5 minutes more, until the carrot is quite soft. Add the tomatoes and juice and bring to a boil, stirring often. Lower the heat and simmer for 30 minutes until as thick as hot cereal. Season with salt and serve. This sauce holds 1 week in the refrigerator or up to 6 months in the freezer.
All recipes copyright 2000, Mario Batali. All Rights Reserved.