The Best Restaurants in Raleigh & Durham, North Carolina
Just 30 miles apart, Raleigh and Durham are often mentioned in the same breath. While each has its own distinct identity, both destinations seamlessly meld Southern hospitality and creative cooking, and their restaurants reflect a deep pride in North Carolina's bountiful produce, agriculture and aquaculture.
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By day, Hummingbird is a cheery, sun-flooded cafe and cozy lunch spot, serving up cups of locally roasted Joe Van Gogh coffee, destination-worthy sticky buns, and po' boys and banh mi. By night, it's a sultry cocktail bar with some of the best bar snacks in town. Chef-Owner Coleen Speaks has an impressive culinary pedigree, having honed her chops in New Orleans under Emeril Lagasse and run sought-after Raleigh catering business PoshNosh Catering, but she could also add "interior designer" to her resume. When you step into Hummingbird, it's hard to imagine that you're in a former A&P grocery warehouse (the trucker bathroom, to be exact). The space juxtaposes contemporary design elements — a gorgeous white-marble bar, canary yellow barstools, a giant hummingbird mural — with existing raw materials like exposed concrete and original 1950s bathroom tiling. Cocktails are served in vintage glassware collected by Speaks, and like the food, are as pretty as they are delicious. The signature hibiscus-tea-and-vodka Hummingbird Fizz makes for a perfect opener, particularly when paired with the brandied chicken liver pâté and a plate of buttery, garlicky charbroiled oysters. Don't miss the airy ricotta fritters for dessert, served with mascarpone cream and seasonal jam. And as long as you're staying for dessert, you might as well order another cocktail.
Raleigh: The Cortez Seafood & Cocktail
The Cortez feels like a tropical getaway, but more in a "beautiful shipwreck" way than a "cheesy umbrella drinks" way. Maybe it's the vivid floral wallpaper and the vintage diving helmet next to the intimate bar, which is a perfect perch for slurping North Carolina oysters served with rosé mignonette, or maybe it's the tropical-inflected cocktails, like the dark rum-based Spice of the Sea. Or perhaps its Executive Chef Oscar Diaz's cooking, which melds his Mexican-American heritage with North Carolina's coastal bounty, the combination of which seems transportive in an unexpected way. As you might expect, the menu leans heavily into seafood and changes frequently based on seasonality. Standbys include any of the ceviches, such as snapper with guacatillo sauce, heirloom peppers and cilantro, and the Gambas al Ajillo, sauteed shell-on shrimp served in a heady, garlicky sauce and served with grilled-flirting-with-burnt baguette for dipping. Don't leave any sauce behind; order a side of bread and "weed butter" for mopping reinforcements, and order another cocktail while you're at it. The Cortez's sister restaurant, Jose & Sons, is also worth a visit for its Mexican-meets-Southern cooking; can't-miss dishes include the barbacoa, featuring brisket braised in beer from neighboring Crank Arm Brewery, and the tamales filled with caramelized onions and braised collards.
In an era when chefs have become the new rock stars, Chef-Owner Cheetie Kumar is a singular talent who is both. Before she started winning national recognition and James Beard Award semifinalist nods for her Indian- and Asian-inspired cooking at Garland, she was more likely to be applauded for her talents in local band Birds of Avalon. Though she still finds time to practice and play with her band (and tinker with the restaurant's soundtrack), these days you're more likely to find her in the kitchen creating dishes inspired by her native India and by North Carolina ingredients. To start, don't miss the crowd-favorite Cauliflower 65, composed of lightly fried florets redolent of ginger and garlic and finished in a turmeric-yogurt sauce. The menu changes seasonally, but dishes seamlessly meld Southern and Indian influences. To wit, giant, shell-on North Carolina shrimp coated with green coconut chutney is a hybrid of peel-and-eat shrimp and black pepper shrimp, and it's served with charred okra and onions, a classic combo in both cuisines. Wash it down with a Magdalena, an off-menu tamarind margarita, or head downstairs for a nightcap at Neptunes Parlour, where you can channel your inner rock star during karaoke Tuesdays. If you'd rather leave the singing to the pros, head upstairs for a show at Kings.
Mandolin is the definition of a neighborhood gem — you're just as likely to venture there to cure a case of the Mondays with a burger as you are to celebrate a special occasion with a three-course dinner. The space evokes a cozy farmhouse-chic charm, the service is always on point, and Chef Sean Fowler's cooking seamlessly blends fine-dining technique with classic Southern dishes, many crafted with produce from his own farm. The mix-and-match bar specials menu is also one of the best deals in town, making a good case for stopping in often. For $15 you can pair a craft beer with dishes such as a pimento cheeseburger or pulled pork barbecue sliders, and snacks like housemade pork rinds and collard ranch, which gets a tart-funky punch from smoked, fermented collard stems. Whether you dine at the bar or in the main dining room, don't miss the gold-standard charcuterie plate, featuring staples such as a lush chicken liver pâté and head cheese served with grilled toast, grainy mustard and seasonal pickled veggies like homegrown cucamelons or okra. Other menu standouts include an off-menu, wood-fired bone-in rib eye, and the fanciest chicken and waffle in town, finished with a bacon-mushroom emulsion and a truffle honey drizzle. Whether or not you've got room left, have at least one bite of the swoon-inducing chocolate souffle, made with 70% Guatemalan chocolate from Raleigh's Videri Chocolate Factory.
You'd be hard-pressed to find anyone, among City of Oak natives and transplants alike, who doesn't gush about Poole's. They're likely to first tell you about the Macaroni au Gratin, a locally famous baked mac-and-three-cheese dish that's listed as a side but is so good that people have been known to order it as an entree. Then they'll get to debating the merits of sitting at the double horseshoe bar or snagging a cozy red leather banquette, and talking about how, beyond the mac 'n' cheese, it's nearly impossible to choose what to order from the chalkboard menu. Poole's is named for the diner that once occupied the space, and while the menu may take inspiration from classic comfort foods, the contemporary spin and thoughtful ingredients are all from chef, restaurateur and James Beard Award winner Ashley Christensen. You really can't go wrong here, whether you're in the mood for, say, a tea-brined pork chop, leg-of-lamb meatloaf or even a simply dressed Bibb lettuce salad. If it's summer, don't miss the tomato pie, a wedge of tomato and cheese layers barely contained in crust. But more than the food, more than the ambiance, what makes Poole'... well, Poole's ... is the hospitality. In fact, all of Christensen's restaurants give you a sense of what Southern hospitality is all about —a feeling of warmth, of being taken care of. You'll find it whether you're brunching on fried chicken and biscuits at Beasley's Chicken & Honey, making a pit stop for pork-chili-topped burgers at Chuck's, splurging on wood-fired aged steaks at Death & Taxes or sipping a late-night craft cocktail at Fox Liquor Bar. It feels like home.
Raleigh: Mofu Shoppe
Sunny Lin and Sophia Woo earned a name for themselves locally with their dumplings- and pho-focused food truck, Dump Pho King Truck, but they earned a national reputation as winners of Food Network's The Great Food Truck Race with their Pho Nomenal Dumpling Truck. The pair took their winnings from the show and opened their first brick-and-mortar, Mofu Shoppe, in an industrial-chic space in downtown Raleigh. The restaurant lives up to its name — fu means "fortune" in Mandarin, and "mo" is an abbreviation for "more" — with a menu that marries more food, more fun and the pair's shared Taiwanese and southern American heritages. The pork and chive dumplings, tweaked from Woo's family recipe, have been on the menu since the early food truck days and are still a must-order. They're boiled and then pan-fried till golden-crisp and are served with black-vinegar-toasted-sesame and sweet-and-spicy dipping sauces. The menu changes often, but diners would revolt if it ever dropped the fish tacos, in which panko-breaded and fried flounder nuggets are nestled into soft tortillas with radish-cucumber salad and a spicy mayo drizzle, and served with a side of kimchi fried rice. Coconut-based curries are also a sure bet, like the lunchtime red curry bowl bobbing with pineapple and tofu puffs (ask for extra!), or the dinnertime green curry mussels, served with youtiao — kind of like a non-sweet Taiwanese churro — for dipping and mopping up the luscious broth.
Raleigh: Bida Manda
If there's one dish that rivals Poole's Macaroni au Gratin as Raleigh's top must-try dish, it's the crispy pork belly soup at Bida Manda, a Laotian restaurant owned by siblings Vansana and Vanvisa Nolintha. In Laos, noodle soups are a popular and hearty breakfast choice for farmers looking to fuel up for their day. Here, the crispy pork belly soup is more likely to induce a nap if you don't keep moving (so consider sharing), but the combination is irresistible: a tangle of rice noodles in a bowl of heady coconut curry broth fragrant with makrut lime leaves and galangal, topped with crispy pork belly slices and garnished with crushed peanuts, egg, lime wedges and a flurry of local fresh basil and mint. Another standout is the crispy rice lettuce wraps: Fill a lettuce cup with crunchy coconut-curry infused rice; scatter with fresh mint and cilantro and toasted peanuts; roll; and dunk in the caramelized sweet chili sauce. The space's serene decor, from the photographs of Laotian monks to the woven wooden screen made with stripped, salvaged wood from the North Carolina mountains, makes you want to linger, so it'd be easy to lose track of time here (especially if you order the pina colada, crafted with housemade coconut cream and pineapple juice). Bida Manda's sister restaurant, Brewery Bhavana, is a must-visit too. Peruse the flower and book shop, sip one of co-owner and brewer Patrick Woodson's excellent beers (try the Till, a floral and refreshing farmhouse ale, or the Glean, a mango green peppercorn Saison), and settle in for a fancy dim sum feast — don't miss the crab fried rice served inside an egg crepe shell.
Raleigh: St. Roch Fine Oysters & Bar
Chef Sunny Gerhart worked under Chef Ashley Christensen before striking out on his own, so it's no surprise that the menu is dialed-in and the hospitality warm, but the flavors are all his. The menu leans heavily on Gerhart's New Orleans roots — St. Roch is named for his old neighborhood in the Big Easy — with dishes such as peel-and-eat BBQ crawfish, red beans and rice, and the Wednesday-only crawfish boil. Oysters live up to their moniker and are available on the half shell (oh hey, dollar-oyster Tuesdays) or baked. Get 'em BBQ'd, with lemon, rosemary and cayenne; Pimento'd, with smoked pimento cheese and jalapenos; or Cracklin'd, with smoked tomato and chicharron. The bar makes a fine perch for slurping oysters and a sazerac, but for a more intimate setting, snag one of the tufted black leather booths, particularly during weekend brunch, when St. Roch seems to be a well-kept secret. That's when you'll find one of the best breakfast sandwiches in town — an oversized biscuit piled with fluffy scrambled eggs, Cheddar and housemade andouille sausage — plus half-price oysters on Saturday and half-price rosé on Sundays.
Raleigh: Crawford and Son
Crawford and Son bills itself as a neighborhood restaurant, and it's true that some regulars come in two or three times a week. There's something about the space itself; in the early evening hours, natural light spills through the windows, illuminating the exposed-brick wall and gray quartz bar, where you might fancy a glass of wine and an appetizer. As the daylight fades, the space relaxes into a more intimate eatery, albeit one pulsating with a near palpable energy as tables fill up (and they do, so make a reservation). And then there's the food: Chef Scott Crawford serves some of the most creative, technique-driven yet deceptively simple dishes around, particularly when it comes to the raw section of the menu. Not many salads can be described as addictive, but a striking dish of raw shaved baby turnips (pictured), paired sometimes with apples and other times with radishes and capers, shows why Crawford has earned the nickname "the vegetable whisperer." The steak tartare is another standout, featuring hand-chopped rib eye folded with spicy mustard, homemade aioli, and a heavy dose of herbs and shallots, and finished with crispy pork rinds. Bookend your meal with pastry chef Krystle Swenson's warm malted wheat rolls with hickory-syrup-whipped butter and one of her inventive desserts, like a summery panna cotta with sorrel granita or a wedge of coconut cake paired with sweet-tart pawpaw sherbet.
Raleigh: A Place at the Table
A Place at the Table serves the best club sandwich in town. It's also huge — but a meal here fills you up in a much deeper way. After working with people experiencing homelessness, Maggie Kane was inspired to open Raleigh's first pay-what-you-can cafe, a place where diners, regardless of their means, not only get to eat, but get to choose what they want to eat. Diners have the option to either pay the suggested price, pay half of the suggested price, or volunteer at the cafe. Those who wish to pay it forward can add a tip — which helps offset the cost of a meal for someone else and contribute to a living wage for the cafe's staff — or buy a $10 token to give to someone hungry for food or community. And Raleigh has responded in a big way: Since it opened in January 2018, A Place at the Table has served nearly 30,000 meals, given over 5,000 meals, racked up over 8,000 volunteer hours and received over 17,000 pay-it-forward meals, equaling over $90,000. Pull up a stool at the counter or snag one of the light-flooded window tables and settle in for chai-spiced waffles and avocado toast at breakfast. For lunch, if the massive club sandwich seems too much, perhaps opt for the sun-dried tomato and goat cheese quiche or a quinoa salad with roasted vegetables, Kane's personal favorite dish.
Durham: Rose's Noodles, Dumplings & Sweets
Justin and Katie Meddis started Rose's in 2013 as a meat market and sweet shop, putting Justin's butchery skills and Katie's pastries front and center, with a small sampling of sandwiches and ramen. In 2017, they went all in on an East Asian-inspired eatery, serving up a menu of ramen, noodle dishes, dumplings, salads and sandwiches, all crafted with pasture-raised meats and sustainable, local ingredients. Justin's deft butchery skills are still put to good use, as he's responsible for breaking down whole animals such as pigs in-house. Pork bones are slowly simmered to make a deep, flavorful broth, fat is turned into lard, heads are destined for head cheese or bun fillings, and jowls are cooked and served with ramen. The ramen's rich pork broth is bolstered with mushrooms and dried fish, coupled with dashi, and finished with a small amount of garlic-infused lard, which gives the broth added depth and helps it cling to the noodles. Katie's sweets are still prominently featured; it'd be criminal not to save room for dessert, particularly the seasonally inspired ice cream sandwiches. Think blueberries and cream sandwiched between lemon and gingersnap cookies, or the fan-favorite strawberry sorbet and ice cream paired with Meyer lemon cookies — Katie even has a dedicated freezer of strawberries to keep up with demand throughout summer. On weekends you can snag breakfast treats like Chinese doughnuts called youtiao, served with soy milk for dunking, made either sweet with a fruit compote, or savory with pickled vegetables, chili oil and cilantro.
Durham: Saltbox Seafood Joint
Fish shacks pepper the Carolina coast, but for a modern take further inland, visit Chef Ricky Moore's Saltbox Seafood Joint in Durham. Here you'll find a pared-down menu of fried North Carolina catch, including familiar choices like shrimp and flounder alongside other native species; Moore is partial to the "full-flavor" fish he grew up eating in Eastern North Carolina, such as bone-in croaker, mullet or hogfish. You can order the seafood as part of a plate, heaped onto a pile of seasoned potatoes alongside zippy coleslaw, or piled onto a roll topped with 'slaw. The casual approach — counter ordering, bright orange cafeteria trays, plastic baskets — belies the fact that this is seafood prepared with the deft touch of a chef who built his career in fine dining. Seafood is lightly dredged, not battered, in a finely ground seasoned cornmeal flour (gluten-free diners, rejoice!), nicely spiced, then fried; even tartar and cocktail sauces taste like something most places would charge extra for. Seafood shacks traditionally serve hushpuppies, fried cornmeal nuggets, and Moore puts his stamp on these, too. The result is his signature (and trademarked) Hush-Honeys, a hushpuppy-zeppole hybrid lightly glazed with honey and dusted with a savory spice rub. The original Saltbox location just outside downtown is a walk-up window with outdoor picnic table seating, so if you've got a group or it's peak summer, head to the air-conditioned location on Durham-Chapel Hill Boulevard.
Durham: Mateo Bar de Tapas
You can't go wrong at any of Durham restaurateur Matt Kelly's restaurants (head to Mother & Sons for a plate of hand-rolled pasta, to Lucky's Delicatessen for the ultimate remedy for a sad desk lunch, or to St. James Seafood for pristine shellfish and expertly prepared local catch), but Mateo Bar de Tapas is the crown jewel in the Kelly empire. The very nature of a tapas restaurant and the made-for-sharing small plates make it convivial, but Mateo's atmosphere — at once buzzing and intimate, cool yet inviting — makes it the kind of place you'd pick for any number of occasions, such as date night, girls' night out, impressing out-of-town guests or entertaining your in-laws. The menu offers classic Spanish tapas such as patatas bravas and pan con tomate, alongside traditional dishes imbued with Southern flair, such as almejas pequenas, in which littleneck clams are served with sherry, garlic, boiled peanuts and ham, or albondigas, where pork-cheek meatballs are paired with saffron rice grits. Wash them down with a cocktail, like The State Bird, a gin and tonic made with Durham Distillery Navy-strength gin and saffron-infused tonic, or one of the sherries from the extensive list. This spot is perpetually packed, so it's best to make a reservation.
According to Picnic's co-owner Wyatt Dickson, any barbecue restaurant must do five things right to succeed: The barbecue, sauce, coleslaw, sweet tea and banana pudding must all be on point. Dickson, along with Ryan Butler and Ben Adams, is nailing it. In North Carolina, barbecue means pork, and Picnic specializes in whole-hog barbecue. The pigs are sourced from Butler's Green Button Farm, located 10 miles down the road, slow-smoked over wood and coals in a custom-built smoker, and then pulled apart by hand. The succulent shreds are judiciously sauced with Dickson's Pig Whistle, an Eastern-meets-Western North Carolina barbecue sauce — that is, vinegar-based amped up with Texas Pete hot sauce and "a little red" (typically ketchup in the western part of the state). The barbecue is served as part of a plate or on a sandwich, both of which come with excellent slaw that is neither too creamy nor too vinegary. A plate also comes with two scratch-made sides, such as mac 'n' cheese, bacon-braised collard greens and sweet potato puree topped with spiced pecan crumble. (If barbecue just isn't your thing, there's also a stellar fried chicken sandwich.) Wash it down with a glass of sweet tea — the signature iced tea of the South is brewed fresh throughout the day here, and is not too cloying — and be sure to save room for the banana pudding.
The concept for Dashi began when Billy and Kelli Cotter hosted a pop-up at The Cookery, a culinary incubator owned by Rochelle Johnson and Nick Hawthorne-Johnson. When the fervor for reservations caused The Cookery's website to crash, it became clear that Durhamites had an insatiable appetite for Japanese fare. The foursome created Dashi, a two-level restaurant with a bustling ramen shop on the ground floor and an izakaya, or Japanese pub, upstairs. Wherever you choose to dine, you'll want a bowl of ramen to slurp. Sit at the ramen counter downstairs for a glimpse of the action, or settle into one of the cozy tables along the Japanese manga-adorned walls. Broth is the foundation of a good bowl of ramen — dashi is the name of the Japanese mother broth — and you can't go wrong here, whether you opt for the milky, porky tonkotsu, soy-based shoyu, funky-spicy kimchi, punchy miso or shio (sea salt). At dinner, head upstairs to the denlike izakaya for small plates that marry North Carolina flavors and ingredients with Japanese techniques, like spicy peanuts boiled in soy sauce, mirin and ginger. There's also an excellent assortment of yakimono — skewered meats and vegetables such as miso eggplant, bacon-wrapped mochi and chicken heart — alongside snacks such as spicy miso chicken wings and curried beef tendons fried into puffy crackers. Wash it all down with a highball of Japanese whiskey, lemon and soda water or a seasonal frozen chuhai, a boozy slushie made with shochu and fruit juice. The Cotters' other restaurant, Toast, is a perennially popular spot for perfectly pressed panini.
Durham: Alley Twenty Six
Triangle restaurant veteran and bartender extraordinaire Shannon Healy created Alley Twenty Six to showcase not only his love of classic cocktails, but also their ability to pair with food. And not just any bar food, but a seasonal menu of snacks and small plates overseen by Executive Chef Carrie Schleiffer, who honed her chops in New York City before landing in the Bull City. Think North Carolina burrata with duck prosciutto and figs, seared tuna toast with watermelon and spicy crushed peanuts, or cornmeal-crusted fried oysters (pictured). Naturally, there's a gourmet burger, which makes up one part of Alley Twenty Six's most-classic pairing. The Alley Burger features a chuck-brisket patty topped with bourbon bacon jam, chipotle aioli and black truffle cheddar — and, if you really want to gild the lily, foie gras. The fatty, salty masterpiece meets its match in The Alley Cocktail, a riff on a dry Manhattan, which gets its spicy backbone from Wild Turkey 101 bourbon, salinity from dry vermouth, depth and funk from Luxardo maraschino liqueur, and subtle cola notes and a bittersweet finish from Cynar, an Italian herbal liqueur. The bar staff is equally adept at mixing up classics — like a gold-standard pina colada or a gin and tonic made with Durham Distillery's Navy-strength gin and Alley Twenty Six's own tonic — and at serving seasonal libations or custom requests. Though it's not on the menu anymore, you can still ask for the Mexican Herbalist, a margarita with a kick in which a blend of Reposado and house-infused jalapeno hibiscus tequila mingles with ginger syrup and a dash of habanero vinegar to refreshing, spicy effect.
Durham: Pizzeria Toro
Anyone can put pizzeria in the name of their restaurant, but you know it's going to be good pizza when you can smell it before you even taste it. A Wood Stone pizza oven anchors the Pizzeria Toro space, emitting an intoxicating aroma of dough baking and charring. Here, the pizza dough is crafted from a blend of soft and high-gluten flours to yield a crust that lands somewhere between Neapolitan and New York-style pizza. Snag a seat at the end of the communal table closest to the mouth of the oven and watch it work its magic to blister the crust to crisp-chewy perfection. Order at least one of each of the "red" and "white" pies, such as the classic margherita topped with stretchy rounds of buffalo mozzarella or the heady chanterelle mushroom and garlic combo with milky fior di latte mozzarella, respectively. Round out your order with small plates like the fan-favorite suppli al telefono, fried mozzarella-stuffed rice balls that owe their deep flavor to the saffron and Parmesan stock-infused risotto. Owner Gray Brooks' other two restaurants are also downtown Durham favorites. Stop by modern diner Jack Tar for fluffy pancakes, Szechuan peppercorn hot chicken, or a nightcap at The Colonel's Daughter, a hidden bar inside Jack Tar, or reserve a table at the enchanting Littler, whose beautiful, starry-night-lit space and small plates seem tailor-made for date night.
Copa started off as a humble sandwich shop and cafe called Old Havana, and though you can still find an excellent Cubano (both the sandwich and the coffee) during the day, dinner is when the real magic happens. Copa — owned by husband-wife team Elizabeth Turnbull and Roberto Copa Matos — is the first farm-to-table Cuban restaurant in the country, and much of the produce comes from their own Hillsborough farm, Terra Sacra. Order vegetales, ensalda de Verano or arroz de verano to sample dishes featuring whatever veggies have been recently plucked from the earth, such as fresh black beans, black-eyed peas or sweet potatoes. Copa is also the only restaurant in the country making dishes inspired by 18th-century Cuban recipes, created according to a lost manuscript called Nuevo Manual, which Copa Matos discovered and helped republish. For example, Ropa Vieja a la Americana is a far cry from the ropa vieja (literally "old clothes") Cubans recognize as their signature dish of braised, shredded beef in heavy tomato sauce — here, grass-fed beef chuck is slowly cooked with white wine, mint, fresh herbs and a light tomato sauce until it's pull-apart tender, then served atop housemade cassava flatbreads (pictured). For Turnbull's part, in addition to managing communications and dabbling in pastry, she's responsible for the excellent cocktail program. The classic Cuban mojito is a sure bet, crafted with rum, lime juice and farm-fresh hierba buena, a fragrant but mild-mannered mint. For a dose of after-dinner drama, opt for La Diosa Negra, a rum and coffee-liqueur tipple that's infused with cigar smoke and served tableside with a swirl of smoke and a tobacco leaf garnish.
Durham: M Sushi
With wooden beams, exposed brick and a custom wooden sushi counter, M Sushi's vibe is simple, minimalist and natural — perfect for letting Chef-Owner Michael Lee's understated but mighty culinary talents shine. Lee discovered his passion for sushi in the mid-'90s while working in a Japanese sushi restaurant part time during college. He dropped out of college to focus on sushi and cooking full-time and has been perfecting his craft ever since. And Durham (and the entire Triangle) is all the richer for it. At dinner, opt for the light omakase, or chef's choice, which features sushi crafted with seasonal seafood, each piece designed to highlight the fish's textures and flavors. The restaurant receives three or four overnight shipments from Japan, including Japanese kinmadai (golden eye snapper), fresh scallops from Hokkaido and wild mackerel, as well as local tuna and flounder, Alaskan sockeye salmon, and spot prawns and sea urchin from Santa Barbara, California. From the small-plates menu, don't miss the flash-fried sushi rice topped with tuna tartare, masago (capelin roe) and cured baby octopus. Lee's other Durham restaurants are must-visits too, including M Kokko next door (try the fried chicken sandwich or the Korean fried chicken), and M Tempura for omakase tempura by night and donkatsu lunch sets by day.
Durham: The Durham
The Durham is best described as an American restaurant, but James Beard Award-winning chef Andrea Reusing's influences skew more old American than new. She cites Mark Twain's ode to American flavors — fresh butter, Maryland crab, and ripe tomatoes from the garden — as inspiration, and so her seasonal menus reflect an abundance of ingredients from North Carolina farmers, fishermen and artisans. The restaurant, located in the lobby of The Durham Hotel, is open all day, transitioning from a light-flooded daytime cafe tailor-made for a quick bite, coffee meetings or a working lunch to a glittering dinner spot, where you'll find luxe signature dishes such as dry-aged, bone-in rib eye served with a roasted marrow bone or North Carolina baked oysters topped with Champagne sabayon and caviar. There's also a rooftop bar that boasts sweeping views of downtown Durham as well as offering a stellar raw bar and small-plates menu. Don't miss the carrot dog, a hickory-smoked carrot topped with green tomato chow-chow and sweet onion relish, which pairs well with the Spirit Hunter, a tequila, Aperol, jalapeno and grapefruit bitters tipple that tempers the carrot dog's sweet-smoky flavors. If you find yourself in Chapel Hill, Reusing's Lantern is a must-visit. Get the salt-and-pepper shrimp, which are fried till the shells are crispy as a potato chip — and just as addictive.