When our restaurant Tru won its first 4-star review, my partners and I thanked the staff with a "staff meal" of caviar, champagne and foie gras. So when the second 4-star review came in, we were stuck for a way to celebrate! We decided to go the other extreme, with a feast of the best bratwurst (a Chicago classic), beer and s'mores. I think we got even more respect for the second meal than we did for the first. It takes nerve for 4-star chefs to serve s'mores!

My dear friend Karen reintroduced me to the molten, aromatic pleasures of this childhood treat. Just combine three bite-size ingredients — graham crackers, milk chocolate and marshmallow — and apply heat. Add your own summer camp memories and serve immediately.

Ingredients

• 32 miniature graham crackers or 8 regular size graham crackers, broken in 1/2
• 2 milk chocolate bars, the kind that can be broken into squares
• 8 marshmallows

Directions