I have been won over to the way of the wrap generally, but I insist this is the best use of the tortilla ever. I came across it first in Miami, in the Raleigh Hotel in South Beach to be precise. The restaurant there is one of my favorites: it nestles in a ludicrously beautiful garden, hung with shimmering lights, and the food is so good that when I'm in Miami I don't dare eat anywhere else. The Raleigh's Morning Quesadilla is a tortilla wrap, folded around avocado and scrambled egg and grilled and shouldn't by rights be as good as it is. You can do a version of it, should you have any leftover Mexican scrambled eggs, but I find whenever I put avocado in, it squelches out before I get the wrap to my mouth. These cheese and ham babies are very good to offer alongside the cool ceviche, but I often make them for supper. They're that good - and that easy. I give quantities for each round soft flour tortilla; each quesadilla makes three little triangles and it's really up to you how many of them to eat. I wouldn't presume.

Ingredients

For each flour tortilla wrap:

• Soft flour tortilla
• 1-ounce thinly sliced cured ham
• 3 coin-sliced slices pickled green jalapeno peppers from a jar, chopped
• 1/4 cup grated cheese
• 1 scallion, finely sliced
• Few fresh cilantro leaves
• 1 teaspoon olive oil (not extra-virgin)

Directions