Ingredients
- 4 gallons plus 1 pint spring water
- 1 (7-pound) bag of ice
- 1/2 pound crystal grain, milled
- 7 pounds light liquid malt extract
- 1-ounce Cascade hops
- 1 3/4 ounces Kent Goldings hops
- 1/2 teaspoon Irish moss
- 1 vial British Ale yeast
- 3/4 cup Priming sugar, boiled with 1 pint water for 5 minutes
Hardware:
- 1 large pot that will hold at least 3 gallons water
- Probe thermometer
- Colander
- Metal mesh strainer
- Cheesecloth
- 2 (7-gallon) fermenters, 1 with a spigot and 1 with an air lock
- 6 feet of plastic tubing that will fit the spigot
- Bottling tube
- 2 cases plus a couple of bottles of 20-ounce Grolsh style bottles
- Bottle brush
- Long metal spoon
- Unscented household bleach
Directions
It is very important to sterilize all equipment that will come into contact with the beer. Also the hops, yeast, and Irish moss need to be kept refrigerated until use. Begin by sterilizing your equipment that you will use to boil the mash; the pot, metal spoon, probe of the probe thermometer, colander and strainer, including the fermenter. To sterilize everything put 2 ounces of non-scented household bleach and 3 to 4 gallons of water into the fermenter. Place other smaller items in the solution to soak. The items that are too large to fit into the fermenter can be sterilized by pouring the solution in the fermenter into and over these items and then thoroughly rinsing all equipment, including the fermenter.
After sterilization is complete you can begin brewing beer by adding 2 gallons of spring water as well as the 1/2 pound milled grain to your pot and turn the burner on to medium high. Place the probe thermometer into the pot and set the temperature to 155 degrees, once the liquid reaches 155 degrees set a timer for 30 minutes. In the meantime soak the container of liquid malt extract in warm water; it will aid in removing it from the container. After the grain has cooked for 30 minutes add 1 gallon of water and the liquid malt extract and bring to a boil stirring so that the extract does not burn on the bottom until dissolved. The liquid will foam up to the top; when it does this, turn the heat off and let it settle then turn the heat back on and bring to a boil. Let it foam again and turn the heat off, let it settle and turn the heat back on and add the hops. Add 1-ounce of the Cascade hops and 3/4-ounce of Kent goldings hops and boil for 10 minutes. Next add 1/2 teaspoon Irish moss and boil for 5 minutes. Now add the last hops, 1-ounce Kent Goldings, cover, turn off the heat and let sit for 5 minutes. Meanwhile put the last gallon and 1 pint of water as well as the bag of ice into the fermenter and fit the top with the colander and mesh strainer. Strain the mash into the fementer and allow to cool to 80 degrees before pitching the yeast. Once the mash is cooled to 80 degrees it is now safe to add the yeast, shake the vial until the liquid is well mixed and then add to the fermenter. Cover with the lid and put airlock in place. Put into cool dark place to ferment for 7 to 10 days.
Attach the siphon on the spigot and transfer beer from one fermenter to the second one. Add the sugar/water mixture. Bottle using the wand. Cap and place into a cool dark place for another 10 to 14 days.
Open and enjoy.
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By Gottfried54
on March 18, 2012
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I brewed my first beer closely following AB’s recipe; great-tasting amber ale. AB nailed it for beginners!
Ice: It’s essentially sterile. Ice made in the US is regulated by FDA. It starts with drinking water meeting EPA standards. It’s then further purified. Careful use of commercial ice won't cause contamination.
Bleach: AB's bleach dilution yields ~160 ppm available chlorine (Cl, a "mild" disinfecting solution. It's why he wants 30 min. contact time.
It would require bad technique, but assume 1 oz of bleach solution is diluted with 5 gallons of wort. This is ~0.25 ppm Cl, assuming all of the Cl is still available; not likely. Most people can’t taste or smell this. Still, I started using brewer's disinfectant.
Tap water in airlock: Possibly a problem. I’m a water treatment plant operator & typically can't pull a "clean" water sample from a kitchen sink faucet (the aerator & swivel are typically contaminated with bacteria. I used bottled drinking water. I will try vodka.
By brewingmaster
on March 17, 2012
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I have been brewing beer for a while. I was happy to see Alton's episode on brewing. It's a great hobby and he brings it to our attention. He does a good job with most of it but he stressed the steps to sanitize so well, but then I could not believe he tossed dirty unknown ice into the wort. There are many better ways to cool the wort safely. The ice bath in a sink is good. Also bleach is not good to sanitize with. Products like Star San will do a much better job without killing off the yeast. One other thing that got me is he filled the air-lock up with tap water. There is a remote chance of leaching from the air lock, so use sanitized water in the airlock or vodka.
By KJones
Anaheim CA
on June 14, 2011
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For the brewing newbies out there, don't listen to many of the experts dissing this beer. I don't have a ton of experience, but I'm on my 4th batch of beer now. I use some of AB's methods while I brew and the beer comes out great. A couple of myths that are being reported:
Don't use ice to cool down the wort: Why not? I've never had a problem with this method.
You need to boil the wort for an hour: When using extracts, the need to boil the extract is not as dire. In fact, boiling it too much may lead to undesired caramelization. I know this has happened to a Marzenbier I made.
You need to aerate your wort: Actually, when he sent the wort through the colander and strainer he did a pretty good job aerating it.
You have to use a starter: No you don't. It may be worthwhile, but you don't have to.
The point is, even if the nitpickers are correct that they can get a better brew using their techniques, AB will get you 99% of the way there with 75% of the work and equipment.
Read all 44 reviews