Make the seasoning: Whisk the seasoning salt, red pepper flakes, cayenne, poultry seasoning, lemon pepper and 2 teaspoons black pepper in a small bowl. Set aside 2 tablespoons seasoning in a separate bowl.

Rinse the wings under cold water and place in a shallow baking dish. Sprinkle with the seasoning, then refrigerate, covered, 1 hour.

Make the batter: Whisk the eggs, hot sauce, red pepper flakes, cayenne and 1 teaspoon black pepper in a medium bowl. Put the flour in a shallow dish or pie plate.

In a large deep fryer or Dutch oven, heat 2 inches of vegetable oil until a deep-fry thermometer registers 350 degrees F. Dip the wings in the eggs, then in the flour. Place the wings, three at a time, in the hot oil and fry until golden, 8 to 10 minutes, turning occasionally. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined baking sheet. Make sure the oil returns to 350 degrees F before adding the next batch. Sprinkle the wings with the reserved seasoning to make them extra hot.

Make the sauce: Mix the sour cream, horseradish, chili sauce, cayenne, and salt and black pepper to taste. Serve with the wings.

Photograph by Con Poulos