Salmon Coulibiac with Herby Horseradish Cream

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  • Level: Intermediate
  • Total: 3 hr 30 min (includes chilling and cooling times)
  • Active: 1 hr 30 min
  • Yield: 8 to 12 servings
Sometimes called salmon Wellington, coulibiac is a layered, pastry-wrapped salmon dish known for its rich flavor and impressive presentation. Legend has it that the dish we know today comes from famed 19th-century chef Auguste Escoffier’s adaptation of an Imperial Russian fish pie known as kulebiaka. With that kind of pedigree, it’s not surprising that coulibiac is elegant and a touch decadent, with silky fish, richly flavored rice and wine-soaked mushrooms wrapped in buttery pastry — a spectacular dish to serve for a holiday or other special dinner. Although the dish includes a number of elements, most can be prepared a day or two ahead of time. And while some recipes call for brioche dough or buckwheat crêpes to wrap the fish, store-bought puff pastry is the secret weapon here. It’s easy to work with and bakes up golden and beautiful, sealing in the flavors of each delicious element of the dish.

Ingredients

Rice:

Mushrooms:

Herby Horseradish Cream:

Salmon:

Directions

  1. For the rice: Heat the butter and olive oil in a medium saucepan with a tight-fitting lid over medium-high heat until the butter is melted and the foaming has subsided. Add the shallots and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the shallots are softened and beginning to brown slightly, about 3 minutes. Stir in the thyme and garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until very fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in the rice until the grains are coated in the fat and beginning to sizzle in the pan. Stir in the broth and bring to a boil. Stir once, then cover the pan, reduce the heat to low and cook until the broth is absorbed, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand for 10 minutes.
  2. Pour the rice into a large bowl and fluff with a fork. Let the rice cool for about 15 minutes, then stir in the spinach, dill, parsley and lemon zest and juice until evenly combined. Season with salt and pepper and set aside to cool completely.
  3. For the mushrooms: Heat the butter and olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until the butter is melted and the foaming has subsided. Swirl to combine, then add the mushrooms and shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms begin to release their liquid, 10 to 15 minutes. Don’t worry if the mushrooms are mounded in the skillet; they will cook down to 1 layer. Stir in 1 teaspoon salt and continue to cook, stirring occasionally and lowering the heat if the mixture starts to burn, until the skillet is nearly dry, about 5 minutes. Stir in the thyme and garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is very fragrant, about 30 seconds. Slowly pour in the wine and stir, scraping up all the browned bits at the bottom of the skillet. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium and continue to cook, adjusting the heat if needed, until the mushrooms are very dark brown and the skillet is dry, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and set the mixture aside to cool completely.
  4. For the herby horseradish cream: Whisk the sour cream, mayonnaise, capers, caper brine, horseradish, parsley, tarragon, lemon juice and mustard in a medium bowl until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate while preparing the salmon.
  5. For the salmon: Whisk together the chopped dill, tarragon, butter, mustard and thyme in a small bowl and set aside. Beat the egg with a splash of water; set aside.
  6. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment and set aside. Stack 2 sheets of puff pastry on a lightly floured surface and roll out into one 12-by-14-inch sheet; transfer the pastry to the prepared baking sheet. Lay the salmon in the center of the pastry, tucking any thinner sections of the fish under itself if necessary. Use a small sharp knife to score the outline of the salmon very lightly on the pastry, being careful not to cut all the way through. This will create the guide for where to build the layers of the dish. Remove the salmon and set aside.
  7. Taste the cooled rice for salt and pepper, adding more if needed. Using your hands, spread the rice in an even layer on the pastry, staying within the scored lines and pressing down lightly on the top and sides to mold the base layer of rice. Gently lay the salmon over the rice, tucking under any thin parts if necessary. Spread the reserved mustard-butter evenly over the salmon; sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Spread the mushroom mixture evenly over the salmon, covering it completely, and use your hands to gently compress the mushrooms over the top of the salmon in the same way as with the rice layer. Brush away any stray rice or mushroom from the pastry border, then brush the pastry generously with some of the egg wash.
  8. Stack the remaining 2 sheets of puff pastry on a lightly floured surface. Arrange the dill fronds decoratively down the center of the pastry sheets to the approximate width and length of the side of salmon. Roll out the pastry sheets to one 16-by-14-inch sheet, pressing the fronds into the pastry. Drape the pastry over the top of the salmon. Use the side of your hands to press the pastry around the salmon, pressing out any air bubbles as you go. Crimp the edges with a fork to seal tightly. Trim the excess pastry to about a 1-inch border. Brush all over with the remaining egg wash. Refrigerate for about 30 minutes.
  9. Position an oven rack in the middle position and preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.
  10. Bake the salmon in the pastry, rotating the baking sheet from front to back halfway through, until the crust is dark golden brown, 45 to 50 minutes. Let rest on the baking sheet for about 10 minutes. Gently slide onto a cutting board to slice. Serve with the herby horseradish cream.

Cook’s Note

Spread out the rice and mushroom mixtures on rimmed baking sheets to speed up the cooling. Both mixtures can be made up to 2 days ahead and stored tightly covered in the refrigerator. The horseradish cream can be made up to 1 day ahead and stored tightly covered in the refrigerator.