Butterflies with Veal Sauce: Pavoncelle Abruzzese

Ingredients

• 6 cups water
• 2 tablespoons salt
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/4 pound finely chopped pancetta
• 1/2 pound ground veal
• 1/4 pound spinach, blanched, drained, and chopped
• 1/4 cup dried porcinis, soaked in warm water and drained
• Salt and pepper
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 1 cup brown chicken stock, recipe follows
• 1 pound fresh farfalle, recipe follows, or 1 pound dried farfalle

Directions

Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil and add 2 tablespoons salt.

In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat and add the veal, spinach, and mushrooms and stir over high heat until the meat is well-browned, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, and stir in the wine. Cook over high heat for 5 minutes, until it has almost completely evaporated, then add the chicken stock, and remove from the heat.

Cook the farfalle in the boiling water until tender yet al dente, then drain, and add to the pan with the hot ragu. Toss over high heat for 1 minute, then divide evenly among 6 warmed pasta bowls.

Brown Chicken Stock:

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 1/2 pounds chicken wings, backs, and bones
• 3 carrots, coarsely chopped
• 2 onions, coarsely chopped
• 4 ribs celery, coarsely chopped
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 1 tablespoon black peppercorns
• 1 bunch parsley stems

In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat the oil over high heat until smoking. Add all the chicken parts and brown all over, stirring to avoid burning. Remove the chicken and reserve. Add the carrots, onions, and celery to the pot and cook until soft and browned. Return the chicken to the pot and add 3 quarts of water, the tomato paste, peppercorns, and parsley. Stir with a wooden spoon to dislodge the browned chicken and vegetables bits from the bottom of the pan. Bring almost to a boil, then reduce heat and cook at a low simmer until reduced by half, about 2 hours, occasionally skimming excess fat. Remove from heat, strain, and press on the solids with the bottom of a ladle to extract out all liquids. Stir the stock to facilitate cooling and set aside. Refrigerate stock in small containers for up to a week or freeze for up to a month.

Yield: 1 1/2 quarts

Semolina pasta dough:

• 2 cups semolina flour
• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 to 1 1/2 cups warm water

Mound the flour in the center of a large wooden cutting board. Make a well in the middle of the flour and water. Using a fork, begin to incorporate the flour, starting with the inner rim of the well.

As you expand the well, keep pushing the flour up from the base of the mound to retain the well shape. The dough will come together when half of the flour is incorporated.

Start kneading the dough with both hands, using the palms of your hands. Once you have a cohesive mass, remove the dough from the board and scrape up and discard any leftover bits. Lightly reflour the board and continue kneading for 6 more minutes. The dough should be elastic and a little sticky. Wrap the dough in plastic and allow to rest for 30 minutes at room temperature. Cut dough into 2 by 1-inch rectangles, and pinch the centers to form farfalle.