Chef Andrew Carmellini and crew may have launched numerous restaurants since Locanda Verde (which counts Robert De Niro as one of its partners) opened in 2009, but there's no replicating their firstborn's inherent loveliness. Sprawled across the ground floor of the Greenwich Hotel (and spilling into the bucolic courtyard), it remains an all-day destination for nibbles of sheep's milk ricotta speckled with sea salt and herbs, light and bright Atlantic halibut with lemon conserva and artichoke vignarola, and rustic and endearingly humble pasta plates such as paccheri with "Sunday night ragu" or the dish dubbed My Grandmother's Ravioli.