I have never really thought of myself as a person who could wrap, fold or fiddle about with food or ever felt that way inclined. But you know, when you get into it, it's really quite OK - actually, more than OK. These wraps are curiously relaxing to assemble and everyone is always bowled over by them. They're a very good way of injecting a little zing into the proceedings without having to slave for hours over a hot stove. I have added the option of the crab wraps, as I do understand not everyone is happy working with or even eating raw tuna. But please do try those ones, too: They are actually a very unspooky experience. Just be sure to ask a fishmonger for sashimi-grade tuna and buy it the day you want to eat it. For both the recipes below I've given the basic unit of wrap; that's to say amounts are sufficient to fill one tortilla, which in turn will yield three pieces once rolled and cut.

Ingredients

For the tuna wraps:

• 1 teaspoon mayonnaise
• 1/2 teaspoon wasabi paste
• 1 or 2 drops sesame oil
• 1 soft flour tortilla wrap
• 1/2 carrot, peeled and cut into matchsticks to give 1/2 cup
• Quarter cucumber, halved lengthways, seeded and cut into matchsticks to give 1/2 cup
• 3 ounces tuna, sliced into 1/16 by 3/4-inch rectangles

For the crab and avocado wraps:

• 1/2 cup white crabmeat
• 1 teaspoon mayonnaise
• 1/2 teaspoon wasabi paste
• 1 or 2 drops sesame oil
• 1/2 avocado
• 1/4 cup finely shredded iceberg lettuce
• Squeeze lemon juice
• 1 soft flour tortilla wrap

Directions