Ingredients

• 4 ounces meaty salt pork, rind removed and cut into 1/3-inch dice
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 2 medium onions, cut into 3/4-inch dice
• 6 to 8 sprigs fresh summer savory or thyme, leaves removed and chopped (1 tablespoon)
• 2 dried bay leaves
• 2 pounds all-purpose potatoes such as Yukon gold, peeled and sliced 1/3-inch thick
• 5 cups Strong Fish Stock, recipe follows
• Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground pepper
• 3 pounds skinless haddock or cod fillets, preferably over 1-inch thick, pin bones removed
• 1 1/2 cups heavy cream
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped Italian parsley leaves
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives

Directions

Strong Fish Stock:

2 tablespoons butter

2 medium onions, very thinly sliced

4 stalks celery, very thinly sliced

2 medium carrots, peeled and very thinly sliced

2 dried bay leaves

1/4 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves and stems

6 to 8 sprigs fresh thyme

2 tablespoons black peppercorns

1 large (6 inches long or more) or 2 small (4 inches long or less) fish heads from cod or haddock, split lengthwise, gills removed and rinsed clean of any blood.

2 1/2 to 3 pounds fish bones from sole, flounder, bass and/or halibut, cut into 2-inch pieces and rinsed clean of any blood

1/4 cup dry white wine

Kosher or sea salt

Melt the butter in a heavy 7 to 8-quart stockpot over medium heat. Add the onions, celery, carrots, bay leaves, parsley, thyme, and peppercorns and cook, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, until the vegetables become very soft without browning, about 8 minutes.

Place the fish head on the vegetables and stack the fish frames evenly on top. Pour in the wine, cover the pot tightly and let the bones sweat until they have turned completely white, 10 to 15 minutes.

Add enough very hot or boiling water (approximately 2 quarts) to just barely cover the bones. Give the mixture a gentle stir and allow the brew to come to a simmer. Simmer for 10 minutes, uncovered, carefully skimming off any white foam that comes to the surface (try to leave the herbs, spices and vegetables in the pot).

Remove the pot from the stove, stir the stock again and allow it to steep undisturbed for 10 minutes. Ladle through a fine-mesh strainer and season lightly with salt. If you are not going to be using the stock within the hour, chill it as quickly as possible.

Cover the stock after it is thoroughly chilled (it will have a light jellied consistency) and keep refrigerated for up to 3 days, or freeze for up to 2 months.

Yield: about 2 quarts