Bring 8 quarts water to a boil in a large spaghetti pot and add 2 tablespoons salt.

In a 14-inch saute pan, heat the olive oil until smoking. Add the onion, celery, potatoes and garlic and saute until golden brown, 6 to 7 minutes. Add the tomatoes, wine and saffron and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer 3 minutes. Drop the fettuccine into the boiling water and cook to one minute less than the package instructions. Just before it is done, carefully ladle 1/2 cup of the cooking water into the pan with the sauce. Add the lobster to the tomato sauce in the pan and toss through. Drain the pasta in a colander and dump into the pan with the sauce, add the chives and toss over medium heat about 30 seconds until nicely coated. Pour into a heated bowl and serve.

Photograph by David Malosh