In this meatless take on a classic Roman pasta, extra egg yolks and olive oil help compensate for the lack of rich pork fat while lightly fried sundried tomatoes, garlic, miso and liquid smoke each add a savory layer of umami to the sauce. It may not taste exactly like the original, but is satisfying in its own rite.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Combine the sun-dried tomatoes, 1/4 cup water and 1/4 teaspoon liquid smoke in a small bowl. Microwave until the tomatoes are very plump, about 1 minute. Let cool, then strain through a fine-mesh sieve, saving the infused water.
Whisk the eggs and egg yolks in a medium bowl with the cheese, miso, remaining 3 to 4 drops of liquid smoke, a pinch of salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper; set aside.
Add the spaghetti to the boiling water and cook as the label directs for al dente. Reserve 2 cups cooking water, then drain.
Meanwhile, combine the olive oil, sun-dried tomatoes and garlic in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Cook until the tomatoes are sizzling and the garlic is toasted, 2 to 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to low; add the spaghetti, reserved tomato soaking water and 3/4 cup pasta-cooking water and toss. Add the egg mixture and immediately toss until the cheese melts and the sauce starts to thicken; the sauce should be smooth and coat the spaghetti. Gradually add more of the reserved cooking water as needed if the sauce is too thick or clumpy; if you run out of cooking water, use hot tap water. Season with pepper.
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Photograph by Yunhee Kim
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