Setting up shop in downtown Birmingham, far from the city’s dining scene, was risky, but the gamble paid off for owners Brian Somershield and Geoff Lockert. Their thick-crust, square slices are among the most popular in town. The star is the BLT, with ricotta, mozzarella, bacon, tomatoes and arugula. Fold it in half and eat it as the name suggests, like a sandwich. $2.50 per slice; 207A 20th St. North; trattoriacentrale.com

Salmon pizza is not rare in Alaska, but salmon pizza from a halal restaurant run by a Pakistani couple is. Raheel and Shazia Chaudhry opened this spot in 2006 after Raheel honed his craft at an Italian restaurant in Sweden (he liked the climate but not Swedish taxes). For this pie, they top a mild fish sauce with red onion, green peppers, tomatoes and fresh Alaskan salmon, then they dare to combine fish and cheese and add a big helping of mozzarella. $16 to $18; 4505 Spenard Rd.; capripizzahalal.com/

This popular spot had a former life as a 1950s beauty parlor, and it’s fair to say that the place is still sending out some beauties. All of the wood-fired pies are worth trying, but the Salsiccia is a must: a thin, chewy, lightly charred crust loaded with melted slabs of mozzarella and cheddar, grilled radicchio and spicy pork sausage. The kicker is a drizzle of slightly sweet saba, a balsamic vinegar reduction. $10 to $14; 1916 East Camelback Rd.; theparlor.us

There was a time when no one was ordering this double-decker, cheese-and-beef-stuffed pie, and it nearly got axed from the menu. But a few tweaks from co-owner Jeff Trine made all the difference: He added onions and olives, topped each slice with tomato sauce and changed the name from The Mexicali to The Stuffy Underdog. Now it’s one of their best-sellers, reaffirming that everyone really does love an underdog. $7 to $25; multiple locations; damgoodepies.com