Once the fourth-largest city in the U.S. and a major port on the Mississippi River, St. Louis has long been a melting pot of cultures and cuisines, and that stands true today. Thanks to the city’s incredibly diverse population, you can find a New Mexican brunch spot, an Israeli restaurant in an old gas station, an award-winning fine-dining establishment and much more. Whatever you’re looking for, chances are that it’s somewhere to be found in St. Louis (and this is especially true if you’re into beer and meat). Check out this city guide for the best of what to eat and drink in this seriously underrated food city.

Editor’s note: This guide was originally published in October 2019 and has been updated with the latest information on these restaurants.

Indo combines contemporary Thai and Japanese cuisine at a mind-blowing level. The signature Isaan Hamachi is a prime example of this — raw Hamachi topped with a Thai kosho, candied garlic, coconut naam pla, shallots, and chili oil. The result is a dish unlike anything you’ve had before. Your best bet is to go for the chef’s omakase tasting menu at the bar—you never know what you’re going to get, but you know it’s going to be incredible.

Imagine that a diner from New Mexico circa 1955 was magically transported to current-day St. Louis and you have Southwest Diner. It feels like a time warp in the best way possible. The interior has a teal, red and blue motif, decorated with all sorts of cacti and New Mexican flair. It’s the food that keeps people lining up day after day. It’s hard to go wrong ordering anything on the menu, but classics include Jonathan’s Famous Fiery Scramble, the red chile-braised Carne Adovada, and the St. Louis-meets-New Mexico Southwest Slinger: two burger patties, home fries and cheese, topped with two eggs and red or green enchilada sauce. Don’t expect to be doing anything productive after breakfast here.

Picking your favorite barbecue in St. Louis is like trying to pick a favorite child: It’s (nearly) impossible. Salt + Smoke is a relative newcomer to the scene, but it’s managed to distinguish itself from the rest by crafting a menu that has something for everyone. The team behind the restaurant come from the fine-dining side of the restaurant world, and they’ve used that to their advantage. Classic barbecue platters are available, but so are more innovative dishes like the brisket sandwich with burnt-end mayo and tobacco onions, or the fried housemade pickles with flax seed mayo. Salt + Smoke’s brisket may very well be the best in town, and the pro move is to ask for the fatty cut — or, even better, burnt ends if they have them.