Which wine? A red wine with low acidity will counter the intense tomato sauce. Barbera or Dolcetto should work well. Choose a classic with medium body and dark red fruits, like Enaudi or Marcarini. Cutting fresh basil into a chiffonade: I always say it's the little things that are important to get right. Cutting basil into a chiffonade (as opposed to chopping it) doesn't seem like a big deal, but doing so creates a better texture and doesn't bruise the leaves as much. To do it, stack some fresh basil leaves no more than 10 high. Roll the pile fairly tightly lengthwise, like a cigar. Using a very sharp chef's knife, slice crosswise. The closer together you make the slices, the finer the chiffonade will be. Fluff the strands of basil and use them immediately, as the cut edges darken fast. This technique also works for other fresh herbs, such as mint and sage. How to peel a tomato: We almost always peel tomatoes. It may seem fussy, but I really don't like those bits of skin in a sauce or on the plate. To peel tomatoes, use a paring knife to cut a small x on the tomato. Bring a saucepan of water to a boil, and have ready a bowl of ice water. Boil the tomatoes for about 10 seconds, then plunge them into the ice bath. The shock of going from hot to cold should cause the skin to contract, making it easier to peel. Use your fingers or a small paring knife to pull the skin off. If the skin is stubborn, try boiling and shocking the tomato again. If your tomatoes are not ripe, bright, and juicy, reduce the number of fresh tomatoes to 8 and add 4 whole canned San Marzano tomatoes. "00" Flour: In Italy and the rest of Europe, flours are labeled as "1," "0," or "00," depending on how finely they're ground. "00" (doppio zero) flour is one of the finest. It's light and soft and makes the most tender pasta. Your supermarket may carry it, but you can definitely find it in Italian markets and specialty food shops.