This recipe has overturned a lifetime's prejudice - which is good, but unsettling. I had always been a committed believer that the only true cheesecake was the proper, baked cheesecake, but now I'm not so sure. This improper, unbaked cheesecake, feature of many a 1970s dessert trolley, has entirely won me over. It's light, it has tang, it is rapturously good. The fact that it is speedily easy to make is more reason for general hilarity and joy. Even in the spirit of retro-accuracy, please do not be tempted to open a jar of cherry pie filling over the cake. I use some French cherry concoction that seems to be pretty universally available and has no added sugar, but anything labelled 'conserve' as opposed to 'jam' should be safe. And, if you feel like it, when cherries are in season, rather strew the top with a couple of handfuls of beautiful fruit.

Ingredients

• 1 1/4 cups graham cracker crumbs
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 3/4 stick soft unsalted butter
• 10 ounces cream cheese
• 1/2 cup powdered sugar
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1/2 teaspoon lemon juice
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1 (10-ounce) jar black cherry spread (recommended: St Dalfour Rhapsodie de Fruit)

Directions