Place the feta in a large shallow bowl, add the onion, garlic, lemon zest, orange zest, cherry tomatoes, if using, green olives, and black olives. Toss lightly but thoroughly. Drizzle the olive oil over the salad and toss again. Add the fresh herbs, toss, and add several turns of black pepper. Arrange the lettuce leaves on 1 large or several individual plates and spoon the feta salad on top. Serve immediately.
Use the tomatoes only when they are in season locally; otherwise, omit them.
2000 Michele Anna Jordan, adapted from The New Cook's Tour of Sonoma (Sasquatch Books). Used by permission of the author